Memoirs

This is a digital copy of a book that was preserved for generations on library shelves before it was carefully scanned by Google as part of a project
to make the world's books discoverable online.

It has survived long enough for the copyright to expire and the book to enter the public domain. A public domain book is one that was never subject
to copyright or whose legal copyright term has expired. Whether a book is in the public domain may vary country to country. Public domain books
are our gateways to the past, representing a wealth of history, culture and knowledge that's often difficult to discover.

Marks, notations and other marginalia present in the original volume will appear in this file - a reminder of this book's long journey from the
publisher to a library and finally to you.

Usage guidelines

Google is proud to partner with libraries to digitize public domain materials and make them widely accessible. Public domain books belong to the
public and we are merely their custodians. Nevertheless, this work is expensive, so in order to keep providing this resource, we have taken steps to
prevent abuse by commercial parties, including placing technical restrictions on automated querying.

We also ask that you:

+ Make non-commercial use of the files We designed Google Book Search for use by individuals, and we request that you use these files for
personal, non-commercial purposes.

+ Refrain from automated querying Do not send automated queries of any sort to Google's system: If you are conducting research on machine
translation, optical character recognition or other areas where access to a large amount of text is helpful, please contact us. We encourage the
use of public domain materials for these purposes and may be able to help.

+ Maintain attribution The Google "watermark" you see on each file is essential for informing people about this project and helping them find
additional materials through Google Book Search. Please do not remove it.

+ Keep it legal Whatever your use, remember that you are responsible for ensuring that what you are doing is legal. Do not assume that just
because we believe a book is in the public domain for users in the United States, that the work is also in the public domain for users in other
countries. Whether a book is still in copyright varies from country to country, and we can't offer guidance on whether any specific use of
any specific book is allowed. Please do not assume that a book's appearance in Google Book Search means it can be used in any manner
anywhere in the world. Copyright infringement liability can be quite severe.

About Google Book Search

Google's mission is to organize the world's information and to make it universally accessible and useful. Google Book Search helps readers
discover the world's books while helping authors and publishers reach new audiences. You can search through the full text of this book on the web

at |http : //books . google . com/

MEMOIRS

OP THE

PEABODY MUSEUM OF AMERICAN ARCHAEOLOGY AND
ETHNOLOGY, HARVARD UNIVERSITY

Vol. IV— No. 2

EXPLORATIONS

IN

THE DEPARTMENT OF PETEN

GUATEMALA

AND

ADJACENT REGION

TopoxTJfe ; Yaxha ; Benque Viejo ; Naranjo
REPORTS OF EXPLORATIONS FOR THE MUSEUM

BY

TEOBERT MALER

CAMBRIDGE

PUBLISHED BY THE MUSEUM

1908

Hosted by

Google

PUBLICATIONS

OF THE

Peabody Museum of American Archaeology

and Ethnology

Papers, svo.

VOLUWl: I — Number J. STANDARD OR HEAD-DRESS ?— An historical essay on a relic of Ancient Mexico.

Bv Zklia Nuttall. ^2 pages and 3 colored plates. iSS8. $1.00.

Number 2. The KARANKAWA INDIANS. THE COAST PEOPLE OF TEXAS. — By Albert S. Gatschet,

with notes by C. A. Hammond and Alice W. Oliver, and a vocabulary obtained from Alice W. Oliver.

104 pages with map. 1S91. $1.00.

Number 3. THE ATLATL OR SPEAR-THROWER OF THE ANCIENT MEXICANS. -By Zelia Nuttall.

36 pages and 3 plates. 1S91 . 50 cents.

Number 4. REPORT UPON PILE-STRUCTURES IN NAAMAN'S CREEK, NEAR CLAYMONT, DELA-
WARE.— By Hilborne T. Cresson. 24 pages and illustrations. 1892. 30 cents.

Number s/ A STUDY OF OMAHA INDIAN MUSIC; including TRANSCRIPTIONS OF 92 SONGS, WORDS

AND music!— By ALICE C. FLETCHER, aided by FRANCIS La Flesche. With a Report on the Structural

Peculiarities of the Music, by John Comfort Fillmore. 152 pages. 1893. $1.25.

Number 6, PREHISTORIC BURIAL PLACES IN MAINE. — By C. C. Willoughby. 52 pages, 4 plates,

50 illustrations in text. I898. $1.00.

Number 7, A PENITENTIAL RITE OF THE ANCIENT MEXICANS.— By Zelia NUTTALL. 26 pages,

5 plates, and 8 illustrations in the text. 1904. 50 cents.

*% yol. 1 complete, with Index, $^.00 ; bound vi cloth, $5.^0.
VOLUME II — THE FUNDAMENTAL PRINCIPLES OF OLD AND NEW WORLD CIVILIZATION.— By Zelia

Nuttall. 602 pages, 7 plates, 73 illustrations in text, and Index. 1901. $^.00 in paper. $^-50 in doth.
VOLUME III - Number h THE CAHOKIA AND SURROUNDING MOUND GROUPS.-By D. I. Bushnell,

Jr. 20 pages and 5 plates, map, and 7 text illustrations. 1904. 75 cents.

Number 2, EXPLORATION OF MOUNDS, COAHOMA CO., MISSISSIPPI.— By Charles Peabody.

44 pages and 17 plates. 1904. $1.00.

Number 3, INHERITANCE OF DIGITAL MALFORMATION IN MAN.— By W. C. Farabee. 13 pages,

5 plates. 1905. 50 cents.

Number 4. THE MANDANS : A STUDY OF THEIR CULTURE, ARCHAEOLOGY, AND LANGUAGE.—

By G. F. Will and H. J. Spinden. 141 pages and 4 maps, 15 plates, and 16 text illustrations. 1906. $1.00.

[This volume to be continued,]
VOLUME IV-Number U REPRESENTATION OF DEITIES OF THE MAYA MANUSCRIPTS.- By Paul

Schellhas. 47 pages and 1 plate, and 65 text illustrations. (A Translation.) 1904. 50 cents.

Number 2- COMMENTARY ON THE MAYA MANUSCRIPT IN THE ROYAL PUBLIC LIBRARY OF

DRESDEN. ~ By ERNST FORSTEMANN. 221 pages and 1 plate, and 10 text illustrations. (A Translation.)

1906. 75 cents.

Memoirs. 4to.

VOLUME I — Number U PREHISTORIC RUINS OF COPAN, HONDURAS.— A Preliminary Report of the
Explorations by the Museum, 1891-95. 48 pages. Large map, illustrations in text, and 8 plates. 1896.
(To be had only in complete volume.)

Number 2. EXPLORATIONS OF THE CAVE OF LOLTUN, YUCATAN. -By E. H. THOMPSON. 22
pages. Illustrations in text, and 8 plates. 1897. $1.00.
Number 3. THE CHULTUNES OF LABNA. — By E. H. THOMPSON. 20 pages. Illustrations in text, and

13 plates. 1897. $1.25.

Number 4. RESEARCHES IN THE ULOA VALLEY. — By George Byron Gordon. 44 pages. Illustra-
tions in text, map, and 12 plates. 1898. (Under same cover with No. 5-)

Number 5. CAVERNS OF COPAN. — By George Byron Gordon. 12 pages, map, and l plate. 1898.
Nos. 4 and 5 under one cover, $1.50.

Number 6. THE HIEROGLYPHIC STAIRWAY. RUINS OF COPAN. — By GEORGE Byron GORDON. 38
pages. 26 illustrations in text, and 18 plates. 1902. $2.00.
^^•^ Volume I complete^ with Index, $7,00 ; bound in cloth, $S. 50.
VOLUME II -Number U RESEARCHES IN THE CENTRAL PORTION OF THE USUMATSINTLA
VALLEY. — By Teobert Maler. 75 pages, 33 plates, 26 illustrations in text. 1901. $3.50.
Number 2. RESEARCHES IN THE USUMATSINTLA VALLEY. Part Second. -By Teobert Maler.
130 pages, 47 plates, 42 illustrations in text. 1903. $5.00.
^% yolume II complete, with Index, $8.00 ; bound in cloth, $9,^0.

List continued on Page 3 of Cover,

Hosted by

Google

ERRATA.

In No. 1 of this volume

Page 9, line 16 from top, for Guadaloupe, read Guadalupe.

„ 12, „ 20 „ „ „ Stelae 10, 11, 12, 13, read Stelae 8, 9,
10, 11.

„ 16, line 9 from bottom, for grotesque " Tlaloc faces," read gro-
tesque faces. [The insertion of the word Tlaloc was through
a misunderstanding of the Editor. See note by author on
page 96.]

„ 20, line 22 from top, for (linteles)^ read the Spanish (dinteles).

Hosted by

Google

Hosted by

Google

MEMOIES

OF THE

PEABODY MUSEUM OF AMERICAN ARCHAEOLOGY AND
ETHNOLOGY, HARVARD UNIVERSITY

Vol. IV— No. 2

EXPLORATIONS

IN

THE DEPARTMENT OF PETEN

GUATEMALA

AND

ADJACENT EEGION

TopoxTJfe; Yaxha; Benque Viejo: Naranjo
REPORTS OF EXPLORATIONS FOR THE MUSEUM

BT

TEOBERT MALER

CAMBRIDGE

PUBLISHED BY THE MUSEUM

1908

Hosted by

Google

Copyright, 1908,

Peabody Museum of American Archaeology and

Ethnology, Harvard University.

University Press :
John Wilson and Son, Cambridge, U.S.A.

Hosted by

Google

EXPLOEATIONS

IN THE DEPARTMENT OF PETEN, GUATEMALA, AND
ADJACENT REGIONS

XX.
THE SACRED ISLAND OF TOPOXT:^ IN LAKE YAXHX.

END OF NOVEMBER, 1904.^

Topoxte {toposte) is the name of a certain bush ^' bearing small, hollow
fruit with a thin rind, which burst with a slight detonation when stepped
on." Top^ seed, semilla; ox (os), ramon tree. The ramon tree bears small,
round fruit forming little hard pellets when the thin, fleshy covering is
removed. These pellets (or any other kind) placed in a hollow calabash, to
be shaken with the hand {t6p-ox-kab)y formed a diviner's rattle or sonaja.

After completing my explorations at TikaP I was ready to leave
on November 15, 1904. Having reduced my luggage to the most necessary
articles, I procured five able-bodied carriers from San Jose for its transporta-
tion, while the three vagabonds I had brought from Tenosique, who were
many degrees inferior to the Indians in every respect, were unwilling to carry
even a cooking utensil or a lantern, and simply trotted along. Since there
was nothing of special interest, from my point of view, on the road from
Tikal to the Remate over which I had already passed several times, I deter-
mined this time to traverse the wilderness in an east-southeasterly direction
and come out, if possible, at Lake Yaxhd. From there I purposed to go to
Benque Viejo, and, after procuring the necessary provisions, to undertake
from that point the exploration of the large ruined cities lying east of Tikal,
— a very circuitous route to be sure ! Had it not been for the always
troublesome question of provisions and the impossibility of procuring willing
men, I should have entered the eastern forests directly from Tikal and should
unquestionably have reached at least one of the mysterious cities. But
nothing would have been gained by so doing, for such expeditions are advis-
able only for purposes of reconnoitring, and not when there is work to be

1 For the location of the sites mentioned in these reports, see the sketch-map, Fig. 9.
^ The report on the exploration at Tikal will be published in a following number of these
Memoirs.

Hosted by

Google

56

EXPLORATIONS IN GUATEMALA

Hosted by

Google

SACEED ISLAND OF TOPOXT:^. 57

done. When it is a question of work extending over weeks or months, the
business must be managed very differently.

Starting from the aguada of Tikal, we could use for the most part chidero
paths. Thus we travelled laboriously from aguada to aguada, where there
were usually small ruins (vestigios). After the second day's march we arrived
at a chiclena or chicle gatherers' camp, where a few chicleros were camping
under Miguel Canek from San Jos6. These people received us kindly and
sold us some provisions.

At the end of the third day's march, after crossing a chain of hills, we
came out at the northern shore of the great Lake Yaxha, having travelled
in all about 14 leagues (60 km.). Three times we had been obliged to wade
through inundated forest swamps, akalche {akalthe)^ with the water reaching
to our waists. These obstacles were always overcome in the best of spirits,
with laughter and joking. Our appearance under these circumstances was
naturally far from elegant. It is quite impossible to dress with conventional
propriety while travelling through these primeval forests, partly on account
of the oppressive heat and partly owing to the circumstance that the low-
lying regions are generally more or less under water during the rainy sea-
son. It is considered quite sufficient to be only partially clad, and when
a destination is reached in a torn, dirty, and soaked condition, the first thing
in order is to make one's self clean and put on some better articles of dry
clothing, which have been kept in reserve. It is necessary to possess an
iron constitution to endure travelling in these regions reclaimed by the
wilderness, where in addition to other trials one is tortured by insects of
many kinds, and has to subsist in the main on scanty rations.

At the spot where we came out late in the afternoon, we found a few
shelter-huts, champas^ which we at once proceeded to put in order, repairing
the roofs with freshly cut palm-leaves. To our great joy we found a cayuco
belonging to the chicleros fastened to the shore. With this we proposed to
reach the island of Topoxte directly opposite, and also to visit the viviendas
of Yaxha at the distant eastern end of the lake. In the meantime some of
the men went fishing, others did the cooking, and I, according to my custom,
took a bath in the lake. A bath after one of these fatiguing marches gives
one a new lease of life. This pleasure, alas, is quite unknown to the natives.
They imagine it is injurious to bathe when they are heated at the end of a
journey. If they bathe at all, it is not until the following day.

As we were but slightly troubled by mosquitoes and the moon shone
brilliantly, the night passed very pleasantly, in spite of the yeUing of a pack
of wildcats {gatos monteses) roaming among the bushes. The Indians called
them cuayuy and warned the heroic fellows from Tenosique to be on their
guard, because these handsome cats were muy bravos y atrevidos^ and had the
bad habit of jumping into hammocks at night and scratching out the
sleepers' eyes.

MEM. PEABODT MUSEUM IV. — 8.

Hosted by

Google

58

EXPLOKATIONS IN GUATEMALA.

On the following morning I made use of the cayuco to send two of my
men to the hamlet of Yaxh^, 6 km. distant, commissioning them to inform
the alcalde of my arrival, and to request him to send us a guide to the ruins
on the island, and also to buy provisions.

The alcalde of Yaxh^, Ignacio Puc, appeared next day in person to
show us the ruins of T6poxte and to give us all the necessary information
regarding existing conditions. We therefore embarked in two cayucos to
row across to the island of ancient monuments, lying 1| km. in a southerly
direction, i. 6., opposite the north shore. The alcalde informed us — and we
were soon able to verify his assertion — that at the west end of the lake
there were six little wooded islands and two islotes^ or very small fragments
of islands, all lying close together. Arriving at the northern shore of the
island, we fastened our cayucos to trees standing up out of the water and
went on shore.

&1S§ ^^

O O O

Iti

a

Fig. 10. — TopoxTE : Sketch Plan of Ruins.

The result of our exploration was as follows : We found that the prin-
cipal buildings are all on a large terrace or foundation mound near the
rocky west shore. Not counting smaller structures, it is possible to dis-
tinguish five principal buildings, three of which stand side by side in a line
on the terrace, their faQades turned toward the west. (See plan of the entire
terrace, Fig. 10, which though hastily sketched is necessary to the compre-
hension of the whole.) On the left wing (^. e., on the observer's right) of
these three stands the main temple with three little circular altars before
the west stairway. In addition there are on the terrace (but to one side
of the circular altars, on the observer's left) six small stelae, set up in
two rows of three each. With these stelae there is only a single, small
circular altar.

The middle structure and that on the right wing are of the same type.
On the west side a few steps led up to the platform upon which the small
oblong structure was erected, probably containing only a single chamber.
In front of the middle structure, a little to the observer's right, stand three
more little stelae, each having before it a small circular altar.

Hosted by

Google

SACRED ISLAND OF T6P0XTfi.

59

Unfortunately, the stelae and circular altars of Topoxt^ have no sculp-
ture of any kind, but one stela has a circle of six little perforations, probably
for the insertion of some kind of adornment.

The north side of the terrace is closed by a structure placed across it, of
the same type as the two just described, with its faQade facing the south.

The architectural finish of the southern end of this group of buildings is
formed by a curious, massive structure without entrances or chambers, which,
I conjecture, must have been a mortuary monument. It stands a little in
advance of the group of buildings, on a rectangular addition to that corner
of the terrace. Without doubt its four sides were similarly treated, the north
side perhaps being somewhat favored. The structure may have consisted of

TopoxTE : Ground-plan and Section of Main Temple.

three parts, but its external divisions can now hardly be distinguished. It is
not improbable that some future explorer may find a burial chamber full of
interesting objects in the interior of this mysterious structure. It will, how-
ever, be difficult to break into it without destroying the entire structure.

A more detailed description will now be given of the main temple (Fig.
11), which, with the exception of the roof, is well preserved.

The massive substructure consists of a succession of three terraces with
a wide, well projecting stairway on the west side leading to the first platform,
from which rises a fourth terrace, three meters high, with a short flight of
stairs on the west side leading to the temple itself. The temple consists of
two compartments of equal length, built one behind the other. Their inside
length is 906 cm. and the length of their fagade is 10 m. 70 cm. The

Hosted by

Google

60 EXPLOEATIONS IN GUATEMALA.

front compartment is 206 cm. wide, while the one in the rear is 235 cm. in
width. As may be seen on the plan, the threefold entrance to the front
chamber, and that to the rear chamber, were reinforced during some later
epoch. Each of the four sides of the structure had small, narrow windows.
In the middle of the wall on the long side of the rear chamber there is a
corbel, which was undoubtedly intended to support the statuette of some
deity. The wooden framework of the roof with its covering of palm-leaves
has, of course, disappeared, leaving no trace.

The height of the substructure of four terraces is exactly 10 m., and
that of the temple itself, exclusive of the roof, was calculated at 4 m. 80 cm.
The masonry is faced on all sides with small hewn stones, which, as usual,
are covered with a smooth coating of mortar.

I must not omit to mention that at some later period an addition, about
4 m. wide, was built adjoining the east side of the substructure, quite cover-
ing up the first two terraces. It is not improbable that this addition
contains tombs.

After cutting down obstructing trees, I photographed the temple from a
southwest, diagonal point of view (Plate 14).

Taking into consideration the small circumference of this island with its
ruins, I came to the conclusion that it never could have harbored an agricul-
tural population of any size, but probably the main settlement had been
established somewhere on the high northern shore of the lake, and in no
case on the southern shore because that is flat and marshy.

In three days our work on T6poxte was ended. We therefore deter-
mined to leave the camp on the north side of the lake and remove to the
hamlet of Yaxha, for which purpose we were permitted to use the govern-
ment canoe, made out of a great caoba tree, which had only very recently
been placed at the disposal of traders and travellers.

While rowing over to the distant hamlet of Yaxha, I carefully scanned
the green outlines of the forests on the rising north shore, clearly defined
against the cloudless blue sky. In so doing I became aware of an extended
chain of elevations appearing here and there. I felt convinced that they
indicated an extensive ancient city, the exploration of which I determined to
put into execution at once.

Hosted by

Google

EUINED CITY OF YAXhA. 61

XXI.

THE RUINED CITY OF YAXHA ON THE NORTHERN SHORE

OF LAKE YAXHA.

DECEMBER, 1904.

The name Yaxha, Green Water {Yas, green, and hd, water) is here
applied in a threefold manner : 1. As the name of the lake. 2. As the
name of the ruined city on the northern shore. 3. As the name of the
collection of huts at the east end of the lake.

When we arrived at the viviendas of Yaxh^, situated at the extreme
eastern end of the lake, the alcalde, Ignacio Puc, placed at our disposal an
abandoned hut in good condition, in which we settled ourselves and our
belongings as best we could.

Unfortunately the social disintegration, prevailing throughout the
southern portion of the peninsula of Yucatan and the greater part of the
Department of Peten, had seized even this tiny Indian settlement. I found
everything on the eve of a general breaking up. Most of the cabins were
already abandoned, and now only served travellers and muleteers as a shelter
or as fuel, the inhabitants having either died or emigrated to British Hon-
duras. The last three remaining families were making their arrangements
to remove to Benque Viejo, which was very inopportune for me, since it
would then be impossible to buy provisions for my always hungry men.

In the midst of these trying conditions, with my men from San Jose
grown impatient though otherwise perfectly tractable, but never liking to
be long absent from their village, and the Tenosique loafers, always discon-
tented, hating all work and thinking only of guzzling, it was imperative that
the exploration of the north shore with its hidden ruined city should be set
on foot without delay. Foreseeing that we should frequently have to row
up and down the lake, I hired a cayuco of the alcalde, so that in this respect
we should be quite independent.

On one of the following days, therefore, we rowed to that spot on the
north shore above which we thought we had observed one of the larger
groups of ciiyos. We fastened the cayuco and entered the forest. Having
reached the wooded plateaus, we suddenly found ourselves in the midst of
numerous mounds of ruins, which, as we soon discovered, stretched in a long
line from east to west, while the extension of the city site from north to south
was at no point considerable.

During the week consumed in the examination of these mounds we
returned every afternoon to our hut in Yaxha, where a modest meal awaited
us. When our laborious search was ended, this ruined city — more than
3 km. in length — had been thoroughly explored, even to its obscurest

Hosted by

Google

62

EXPLORATIONS IN GUATEMALA.

corners. We had found ten sculptured stelae; half of ' the number, how-
ever, being wholly destroyed, while the others still admitted of being
photographed.

We will begin the description of the city with the main temple at the
east end, and conclude with the group of structures at the west end, where
we found Stelae 8, 9, and 10 and the large, circular altar (plan, Fig. 12).

Upon the levelled top of a natural elevation rises the east, main temple,
its pyramidal substructure consisting of three high steps or terraces with the
masonry in a partially ruined condition. On the west side of the pyramid a
flight of stairs leads to the platform on top, where are the crumbled walls
of the temple, consisting, as it seems, of a single, small compartment wdth
an entrance on the west. That this temple interior had a vaulted ceiling is
proved by still distinguishable fragments of vaulting. The mortar covering
of the exterior still shows traces of red.

t^-.-ij

Fig. 12. — YaxhX: Sketch Plan of Ruins.

Below, on the approach to the pyramidal structure, just in front of the
stairway, I found a much weather-worn and cracked circular altar, with
traces of sculpture in strong relief still visible on its upper surface.

To the north side of the first terrace is joined a structure which may
have been a small outer temple, and there are also vestiges of other minor
edifices.

Southwest of the pyramid are the ruins of an oblong palace, which once
consisted of three chambers in a row, each probably with a corresponding
compartment in the rear. One of these compartments (with a triangular,
vaulted ceiling) is still partially preserved.

Starting from the east, main temple, and going west for nearly a kilo-
meter, one passes insignificant heaps of debris here and there, but eventually
arrives at a square enclosed by structures on all four sides. I call this square
The Square of the Six Stelae.

The north side of the square is bounded by an oblong mound of ruins,
and all that can be said of it is that the fagade of the original structure must

Hosted by

Google

EUINED CITY OF YAXHi. 63

have faced the south, on which side a few steps led to the platform of the
substructure. We found no stelae on the south side of this north structure.

Opposite the north structure is a similar mound of debris of what may
be called the south structure, whose faQade must naturally have faced north.
Before this north side, just in front of the few steps of the substructure, is a
still upright stela with a circular altar before it. I have called this Stela 6.

The west side of the square is closed by a large mound of ruins, doubt-
less of the west structure, with a faQade facing east. The substructure of
this ruin forms a preliminary, eastern terrace to which is joined the oblono*,
main terrace, which is surmounted by a structure with a little flight of stairs
in the middle of the east side. No stela was found in front of this structure.

The east side of the square is closed by the east structure, a large
temple-palace with a complicated ground-plan ; its faQade and stairway faced
the west, as a matter of course. A now ruined stairway leads high up to
the top platform, upon which, both on the right hand and on the left, three
must once have stood a little outer temple {templete)^ while further back,
occupying the whole length of the platform, stood the main temple, probably
consisting of three compartments in a row. There are still some remnants
of masonry at the southeast corner.

Half way up to the top platform, there was a lower structure forming a
right and a left wing and a passage around to the rear of the middle struc-
ture. On the right wing, and also on the left wing of this terrace, there is
a heap of debris, evidently of the flanking structures which stood there.

On the open space along the west side of this group of structures are
five stelae, 1 and 5 standing a little back, while 2, 3, and 4 are set forward,
and a large circular altar stands in front of 3. The backs and the narrow
side-faces of all these five stelae are plain.

Stela 1 (Plate 15, Fig. 1). I must preface the description of this stela
by explaining that the conditions prevailing with regard to Stelae 1 and 5 of
Yaxh^ are the same as those regarding Stela 2 of Tikal. After some great
public calamity (drought, famine, disease, war) the priests broke the image
of the deity in which the people had lost confidence and with great cere-
mony set up and consecrated a new and, if possible, a better one, which was
hailed with renewed trust by the populace, equally stupid and blind in all
ages and in every zone ! The top of the shattered image was then usually
inserted somewhere in the immediate vicinity as a warning to the deities,
so fickle and ungrateful in spite of all the sacrifices, and so inconsiderate as
to compromise the infallibility of the priests in the eyes of the people !

As Stela 1 (according to the enumeration) of Tikal is an improved repe-
tition of Stela 2, so in Yaxh^ Stela 2 appears as a substitute for Stela 1, but
with an entirely different bas-relief, and Stela 4 replaces Stela 5, repeating
the original figure and the accessories with but slight variations.

There can be no question here of stelae broken by falling trees or the

Hosted by

Google

64 EXPLOEATIONS IN GUATEMALA.

mischief of man, for the top pieces of Stelae 1 and 5 were quite regularly let
into the cement pavement a little to the rear, the cement covering up sev-
eral centimeters of the bottom of the bas-relief at the line of fracture.

The preserved fragment of Stela 1, which is rounded at the top, meas-
ures 130 cm. in height and 94 cm. in breadth. The design of the bas-relief
on the west side must have been a very peculiar one and can no longer be
understood. What makes the comprehension of this relief particularly diffi-
cult is the fact that the large horse-shoe-shaped ear-ornament with seven
perforations (below on the observer s left) does not correspond to a large
profile face of any principal human figure in an upright position, but seems
to have only a symbolic meaning, while in an oblique line toward the front
there is a face in profile with a smaller ear-ornament — a disc with a per-
foration and scroll-work at the top and bottom. Whether the man to
whom this head belongs is supposed to be standing or sitting cannot be
determined. He seems to be stretching his right arm backward and the left
one forward, so that the row of glyphs opposite his face appears to be rest-
ing upon his hand, while a serpent winds above the head-dress with its head
resting on the topmost glyph. Above the serpent there are large, conven-
tionalized, open jaws surrounded by confused, symbolic scroll-work.

Stela 2 (Plate 15, Fig. 2). Affected by the action of the elements and
by falling trees, this stela has crumbled away just above the face in profile.
Its present height from the cement pavement to the top is 275 cm., to which
should be added about 75 cm. for the piece let into the ground, and perhaps
one entire meter for the missing piece at the top. The width at the base-
line of the figure is 122 cm.; former thickness about 65 cm., now somewhat
less, since the back of the stone has scaled off considerably.

West side. The 70 cm. from the cement pavement to the bottom line
of the band of glyphs are plain. The width, or height, of the band of
glyphs is 24 to 29 cm. The details of these three large glyphs are plainly
visible on the photograph. The upper edge of the band of glyphs is the
base-line of the figure, which is represented from the right side with the left
foot a little advanced, and the face naturally turned toward the south. The
foot-gear is fastened by an elaboration of leg-bands and cross-gartering
reaching to the knee. The girdle is ornamented with St. Andrew's crosses
and circular knobs with a central indentation, and a large head in profile is
attached to the back. The breast-cape (necklace) consists of three rows of
beads, and a peculiar ornament appears under the chin of the face in profile.
The priest holds the ceremonial bar diagonally on his right arm, which
shows at both ends the conventionalized, open jaws holding a face in profile.
The uplifted left hand holds out a mask with an ornamental crest.

Behind the right leg there is a large head with a fierce countenance,
and in front of the left foot a grotesque face, composed of symbolic signs,
with a Kin sign above the symbol representing the eye.

Hosted by

Google

EUINED CITY OF YAXHA. 65

The deepest depressions of the sculpture, as well as those of the glyphs,
still show vestiges of beautiful, blood-red color.

Stela 3. This is the middle one of the five stelae, and is unfortunately
completely shattered from the symbolic base up. The large fragments lying
on the ground have become very porous from the rains, and the relief-work
has crumbled off. The remaining portion is still firmly imbedded in the
cement pavement and shows, on the west side, the base of the bas-relief
measuring 24 cm. in height. It is very well preserved, but did not seem to
be important enough to be photographed. Its design is a fantastic head in
profile, possibly that of an animal, surrounded by grotesque profiles and
scroll-work extending to the right and to the left. The breadth of this stela
is about 120 cm.; its thickness, 67 cm.

Stela 3 is the only one of the five stelae having a circular altar before it,
but this also is so completely weather-worn and cracked that its upper sur-
face barely retains a trace of sculpture. In front of the other four stelae the
votive offerings were placed directly upon the cement pavement, and in dig-
ging around them numerous sherds of pottery vessels, as usual, came to

light.

Stela 4 (Plate 16, Fig. 1). This stela is broken off above the shoulders
of the priest. Its present height, from the cement pavement to the horizon-
tal line of fracture, is 240 cm., to which should be added about 75 cm. for the
portion let into the ground, and about 125 for the missing piece at the top.
Breadth at the bottom, 125 cm.; thickness, 65 cm.

West side. Since, as I have already said, the principal figure on Stela 4,
with its accessories, is a repetition of that represented on Stela 5, and many
of the details are more distinct now on one, now on the other, the description
of Stela 4 may be regarded as pertaining to whatever still remains on Stela 5.
The plain portion at the bottom of the west side, from the cement pavement
to the lower line of the symbolic band of glyphs, measures 80 cm. in height;
the band itself, 26 cm. The design on the latter may be regarded as consist-
ing of two large compound glyphs. A personage, doubtless of high, sacer-
dotal rank, is represented from the left side, standing on a slightly inclined
base-line, the right foot a little in advance, and the face looking toward the
north. The foot-gear resembles that of the personage of rank on Stela 2
and the leg-bands here also reach as far as the knee. The girdle seems to
be nearly covered up, but here, and also on Stela 5, an ornamental head
appears to be attached to it in front. The necklace or breast-cape is of
round beads, and on Stela 5 there is a face with small pendants on the
breast. The cuffs worn at Yaxha are different from those which were
customary in other cities, as shown on Stelae 4, 5, and 6. As the faces and
head-gear of both stelae are destroyed, we must pass them over in silence.

The priest holds the ceremonial bar diagonally on his left arm ; it has
the conventionalized, open jaws at each end, holding the large face of a

MEM. PEABODT MUSEUM IV.— 9.

Hosted by

Google

66 EXPLOEATIONS IJST GUATEMALA.

deity. The face at the upper end of the bar is worn away on both stelae
but on the lower end the face with goggle-eyes and a kind of moustache
(or nose-ornament) is plainly visible in both cases. An ornamental chain
extends from the ceremonial bar obliquely across the body and passes around
to the back. Upon the outstretched right hand rests a profile head with
a singular crest. This is very distinct on Stela 5.

I am inclined to think that a large head with pendants is attached to
the back of the priest.

On the background of Stela 4 there is a large glyph in front of the
right thigh, with the sign for 9 placed horizontally across the top. Behind

the left thigh, at the end of the peculiar chain — perhaps attached to it

is a large animal mask, out of the mouth of which twines a serpent stretch-
ing out its tongue in the shape of a double scroll. The deepest indentations
still plainly show vestiges of beautiful, blood-red color.

Stela 5 (Plate 16, Fig. 2). It can only be said that the upper half of
this stela, which is let into the cement pavement, is 175 cm. in height and
107 cm. in breadth. From the face up all is worn away, but many details
of the remaining portion are still quite distinct.

Stda 6 (Plate 17, Figs. 1, 2). In front of the north side of the south
structure stands Stela 6, with the most important relief on its north side,
one of less importance on its south side, and a double row of glyphs on
each of the narrow side-faces, i. ^., on the east and west sides. The height
of the stone from the cement pavement to the extreme top is 310 cm., to
which should be added about 75 cm. for the portion let into the ground.
Breadth at the bottom, 104 cm. ; thickness, 60 cm.

North side. The symbolic scroll-work of the base reaches down to the
cement pavement and measures 78 cm. from the ground to the base-line
of the figure. In order to arrive at some comprehension of the design on
the base, the photograph must be held upside down, when a profile face
will be seen in the middle, with scroll-work arms extending to the right
and left and ending in hands curving upward. Turning the picture right
side up again, a little kneeling figure with a conventionalized head can
with difficulty be distinguished close behind the profile. The surrounding
scroll-work is quite distinct, but defies description.

The personage of rank, overloaded with ornaments, is represented from
the left side with the right foot a little advanced. He wears high foot-gear,
a girdle with St. Andrew's crosses holds the tiger-skin loin-cloth at the waist,
and to the large fastening in front is attached an interesting head in profile
with pendants. A mask is also attached to the front of the breast-cape.
Beginning at the neck and shoulders, elaborate ornamentation frames the
whole face (the crescent-shaped ear-ornaments are particularly striking) and
develops upward into a fantastic helmet, with what seem to be serpents
curving forward and backward. An ornament, looking like a large head

Hosted by

Google

• RUINED CITY OF YAXHA. 67

with pendants, is attached to the priest's back. In his right hand the priest
holds a standard with an animal's head, overtopped by a crest of feathers,
on the cross-bar. The left hand holds some kind of a pendant. In front
of the right foot kneels a man, done in reduced size, grasping the shaft of
the standard. From the side of the girdle with St. Andrew's crosses, an
ornamental chain extends toward the back, and at the end of it crouches
a manikin stretching his right arm through a ring of the chain and resting
on scroll-work which reaches down to the base-line of the relief. (Owing
to strong shadows the manikin cannot be seen on the photograph, but its
counterpart appears on Stela 10.) Remains of dark-red color appear in the
indentations of the stucco.

In the month of December, by the way, no sunlight fell upon the
relief, which faced the north and looked perfectly black. For the time
being, therefore, we cleaned it and cut down impeding trees. But when
I revisited Yaxha in May, 1905, on my return from Benque Viejo, and the
sun's rays fell from the north early in the morning, I photographed this
stela in all haste.

South side. The relief on the south side was of a less elaborate nature,
but is now so badly worn by the rains that it is quite impossible to make

it out.

East side. On the east narrow side-face there are two perpendicular
rows of twelve glyphs each, making twenty-four in all. Though the top
glyphs are worn away, the middle and lower ones are still fairly well pre-
served, for which reason I photographed this side in a very favorable light

just before noon.

West side. The west narrow side-face is so nearly worn away, that I
thought it would be useless to photograph it. It is just possible to distin-
guish that this side also had 2 x 12 glyphs arranged in two vertical rows.

Before the north side of this stela stands a circular altar, once display-
ing relief-work on the upper surface, which is now worn away and cracked.

Starting from the square of the six stelae, and going directly west for
a considerable distance, between more or less insignificant heaps of ruins,
we reached a group of mounds of different sizes lying in close proximity
to each other. Some of these cuyos are undoubtedly the remains of large,
pyramidal main temples.

Stela 7. In the midst of these mounds, I found the lower half of a
stela lying on the ground with reliefs of figures and glyphs on all four
sides. Unfortunately, large pieces of this fragment were cracked off and
lay about, while the upper half could not be found. This is all the more
to be regretted because the limestone of this stela is extremely hard, and
the reliefs seemed but little affected by the action of the elements. The
height, or length, of this fragment is 135 cm.; breadth, 78 cm., and
thickness, 43 cm.

Hosted by

Google

68 EXPLORATIONS IN GUATEMALA.

It is plain that the relief on the front of this stela must have repre-
sented a standing figure partly from the side, and each of the narrow side-
faces was ornamented with a similar figure in profile. The relief on the left
side-face was very well preserved — except for some scaling oflf on one of
the edges — showing from the girdle down both legs together with the
feet and a piece of the scroll-work base.

The back of this stela apparently had four vertical rows of glyphs,
probably twelve glyphs in each row. The lowest five glyphs of each row
were partially preserved; large pieces had also scaled off of the back of
the stone in consequence of forest fires.

Continuing in a westerly direction, we soon reached a monumental
square, not far from the large group of ciit/oSj which I named The Square of
the Three Stelae. It had formerly been enclosed by structures on three sides
— east, west, and north — and was open on the south.

The square is bounded on the north by a large, low heap of debris ;
the fa9ade of the former structure faced the south.

The west side is closed by a higher heap of ruins, probably of a temple
with pyramidal substructure having a faQade and stairway facing the east.
Adjacent to the left wing of this structure is a smaller mound.

The east side is occupied by a large, long mound ; its former faQade,
and probably also the stairway, faced the west. Behind the ruins of this
structure is another smaller mound, and on the left flank, but a little to the
rear, stands a large high ciiyo, the remains, no doubt, of a large pyramidal
temple, whose fa9ade and stairway must have faced the west.

In front of the oblong structure on the east of the square, stood the
three stelae, Nos. 8, 9, 10. Stelae 8 and 10 are set back a little, and Stela
9, with a large circular altar, is somewhat advanced.

Stela 8. , Owing to the softness of the stone the entire upper half of
this stela has fallen off and been converted into rubble. Breadth, 1 m. •
former thickness, about 60 cm.

Let me say here that the design of the relief on the west side of Stelae
8 and 10 must have resembled that on the north side of Stela 6. The relief
on Stela 8 deviates from those on Stelae 10 and 6 only in this, that the
principal figure is represented from the right side, with the left foot a
little advanced. The face is looking toward the south, while the face
of the principal figure on Stela 10 looks toward the north, as it does on
Stelae 2 and 4. The base of the relief on Stela 8 consists of symbohc
scroll-work.

A personage, done in reduced size, kneels in an attitude of entreaty in
front of the principal figure, and behind the latter the tiny manikin can be
seen (as on Stelae 10 and 6), with one little arm drawn through the ring of
the chain ending at that point.

Since the remains of the relief on Stela 8 were very much worn by the

Hosted by

Google

EUINED CITY OF YAXHi. 69

action of the elements, it was not photographed. There was no circular
altar in front of this stela nor in front of Stela 10.

Stela 9. The height of the enormous middle stela may have been four
or five meters. Its breadth is 153 cm., and its thickness 75 cm. or more.

This colossal stone lies shattered on the ground, and as it is very porous
and quite soft the relief is entirely worn away. In front of this giant stela
stands a very large circular altar, 2^ meters in diameter, which is likewise
so shattered and weather-worn that there is no trace of a possible relief to
be found on its upper surface.

Since the reliefs on Stelae 3 and 9 in all probability represented totally
different personages, — deities perhaps, — their destruction is all the more to
be regretted.

Siela 10 (Plate 18, Fig. 1). Only the lower half of this stone is still in
a state of preservation, while the upper portion has turned to rubble in the
course of time. The breadth of this stela is 110 cm., its thickness about
60 cm.

On the photograph of the stela the base can plainly be seen, con-
sisting of symbolic scroll-work, in which there seems to be an arm ending
in a serpent's head. The principal figure standing on the base-line is repre-
sented from the left side, with the right foot a little advanced. The man,
done in reduced size, kneeling at the feet of the principal figure, can be
plainly distinguished, and likewise the manikin at the back, sitting upon an
animal's head, with pendants, and thrusting his right arm through the last
ring of the chain.

7%^ Square of the Three Stelae forms the west end of Yaxh^, and at the
rear of the west structure the land slopes down to a deep ravine running
transversely.

I estimated the distance from the square of the three stelae to the main
temple at the east end to be more than three kilometers.

It is easy to imagine how the architectural arrangement of the city —
a long line of monumental structures surrounded by thousands of cabins
— must have offered great convenience of living to the people at large.
The inhabitants had but a few steps to take down the gentle slope of the
declivity on the south to reach the clear waters of the lake, while toward
the north stretched boundless plains inviting the cultivation of maize.

No doubt thousands of cayucos, or dug-outs, cruised in all directions on
the waters of the lake in those distant days. What a contrast to the mis-
erable conditions of the present day in spite of its higher civilization, which
is of no avail when all the human beings are on the eve of extinction or of
moving away !

Since practically complete ignorance prevails in Europe and in the
United States, and even in Mexico and Guatemala, regarding Lake Yaxh^
and its environment — for it is astonishing how few people of education travel

Hosted by

Google

70 EXPLORATIONS IN GUATEMALA.

in these really extremely interesting countries — I will close this report with
some explanatory remarks.

The sheet of water in question here is, strictly speaking, a double lake,
or, if you will, two different lakes meeting at an imaginary central line at an
obtuse angle and connected by a natural canal. One lake called Yaxh^,
Green Water, extends from east to west and is about two leagues (8^ km.)
in length. The other lake is called Sacnab, White Water Lily, after the
Kymphaea alba blooming upon its surface. It extends from southwest to
northeast. The east end of one lake is connected with the southwest end
of the other by a shallow arm of water, so that cayucos can pass from one
lake to the other, which is of great advantage to travellers and traders
desirous of transporting their luggage as far as possible by water in order
to save their mules.

Near the western end of Lake Yaxh^ lie the six islands and the two
islotes. Passing along the south side of this group of islands one enters a
long, narrow, west arm, at the end of which is the landing-place called El
Paso de Ixtinta.

From El Paso de Ixtinta to the Aguada del Tigre, the distance is four
leagues. According to my calculation Las Ruinas del Tigre must be situated
not far to the southwest of this aguada. I could not explore these ruins,
however, owing to the unsettled conditions prevailing among the Indians of
Yaxha. These are the ruins which Alfred Maudslay cursorily surveyed and
called "San Clemente" after the station of that name lying two leagues
beyond on the way to Peten.

The whole stretch of country from Ixtinta to San Clemente must have
been thickly settled in ancient times. At suitable places wherever one
enters the forest on the right or left side of the road, he invariably meets
vestiges of more or less extensive settlements, while El Tigre and Yaxha
must be regarded as the two largest ruined cities in that portion of the
country.

Generally speaking, the water of Lake Yaxh^ does not look green from
a distance. The color effects change according to the surroundings, the
clouds, the position of the sun, etc. But in passing along by the north
shore, delicate, emerald green filaments can be seen, probably a tiny variety
of algae, which impart a green color to the water at very close view.

During a storm, rowing on the lake in a swaying dug-out is often
attended with danger. In such cases it is best to keep under the lee of the
north shore or to wait until the storm is over. We were in no slight peril
several times during our afternoon trips from the ruins back to the hamlet,
when the wind, coming from the east, swept with great violence over the
water.

Accidents sometimes happen and the water deities claim a sacrifice.
Only a few years ago a cayuco, bringing a load of chicle from Paso de los

Hosted by

Google

EUIKED CITY OF YAXHi. 71

Chicleros to the hamlet of Yaxh^ was overtaken by a furious storm and
capsized. Three men were drowned and the load of resin sank to the
bottom. One of these men, named Fernando Chi, was the owner of the hut
which the alcalde had assigned to us, and the father of the beautiful Grego-
ria Chi, whose lovely oval face represented a higher race type than that of
the rest of the people, who have pronounced round heads. The three heads
of families of Yaxh^, who were on the point of departure with their families
and chattels, were Ignacio Puc, Marcos Ak^, and Anacleto Ak6.

The wife of Anacleto Ake was an industrious woman who was assisted
in her household duties by the attractive Gregoria Chi, and together with
her provided my men, as far as possible, with tortillas and potsol. She was
of that singular type with long, protruding eye-teeth curving back on each
side {eolmillos)j which still occurs here and there in the southern part of the
peninsula of Yucatan, and is far from beautiful according to European ideas.

While looking at certain ancient pottery figures and grotesque deity-
masks, such as are found in these regions, I have often asked myself whether
a race of human beings ever existed in a far-off epoch, on this or another
continent, with teeth so formed, or whether the very protruding teeth with
a sideways curve were not merely an exaggeration on the part of the sculp-
tors. But the fact of the matter is, that in isolated instances this " gorilla-
type " is still met with, and at once reminds one of the old pottery figures,
and must be regarded as the very last remnant of a now vanished race.

We saw no ducks either on Yaxh^ or on Sacnab. They would have
been a very welcome addition to our too frugal meals. Only the ugly, black
sea crows {los malaches) flew to and fro, subsisting on fish. They do not
seize the fish on the surface of the water, but swim for minutes under water
and thus catch their prey. Then they perch on barren rocks or dead trees
and digest their meal in perfect repose.

There are no fish of superior size and quality in these lakes, only
the favorite tencuayacas^ the little sardinas, and perhaps a few others.

Let me remark here that I observed an extremely pretty, dazzlingly
white little rodent, which ran quite fearlessly to and fro on the rafters of
our cabin. The Indians called it sdbin. Fully pronounced the name of this
rare little creature is probably sdcbin meaning something white running
about.

Three small lakes are said to lie to the northwest of Yaxha: La
Lagunita Colorada, La Laguna Colorada (whose waters are reported to be of
reddish hue) and La Laguna Chiimpoxt^ (tsumpo^te), and I was told that still
other sheets of water lay toward the south. A certain Nicolasa Couoh (the
second wife of the late Fernando Chi), who came from Yaxha and took care
of my men in Benque Viejo, told me very positively that close to the waters
of Laguna Colorada there was a structure near which were three small
figures in a good state of preservation. She herself had seen them, when

Hosted by

Google

72 EXPLOEATIONS IN GUATEMALA.

she used to take her husband's dinner to him as far as the lake, while he was
working with the chicle collectors in that region. Unfortunately I could not
establish the truth of this report when on my return from Benque Viejo in
May, 1905, I again touched Yaxha, finding it completely abandoned, and so
the matter remains doubtful.

I must not omit to mention the fact that the waters of the double lake,
Yaxh^-Sacnab, and apparently of all the lakes in the Department of Peten,
have risen considerably during the last century. This is true to so great an
extent that the first cabins of Yaxha, built in their day at a certain dis-
tance from the shore, now stand in the water to the depth of one meter, even
in the dry season. It is difficult to say why these waters have thus risen. It
may be owing to the fact that almost the whole southern portion of the
peninsula of Yucatan and the larger part of the Department of Peten having
lapsed back to the wilderness, greater masses of water are consequently pre-
cipitated in these tropical forests ; or possibly it may not be a question of the
actual rising of the waters, but of the subsidence of territory. These matters
cannot be decided during the brief sojourn of a traveller. But the fact
should be emphasized that with Yaxh^ it is not a difference of a few centi-
meters only, but during the last twenty-five years the waters have risen at
least one meter, while those of the great Lake of Peten-Itza have risen
twenty-five centimeters or more in the same time.

I should like to direct the attention of future travellers to the further
observation of this phenomenon, which has not yet reached a climax. A
fixed point of departure for such observations, important also from a practi-
cal point of view, would be furnished if the government could be persuaded
to have a mark, designating the water at its lowest ebb in the dry season,
together with the date, cut into some rock in the Lake of Peten-Itza and also
in Lake Yaxha. The difference in the height to which the water rises could
then be observed at the end of every period of ten years.

Our relations with the last of the Mayas at Yaxh^ developed very
pleasantly. The Indians very quickly perceive whether a stranger comes to
annoy and take advantage of them, or whether he is ready amply to
remunerate every service rendered and to do whatever favors may be
demanded of him. Consequently they told me some interesting things.

Only a few years ago several free Maya families were living at the
northeast end of Lake Sacnab, who subsequently either died out or emigrated
to British Honduras. Their now abandoned territory still bears the name
^' El Caribal de Santa Cruz.'' (The Spaniards have the erroneous habit of
calling the free Mayas " Caribes," a name which belongs only to the Indians
on the distant Orinoco.) The man among them most versed in woodcraft of
every kind was Julian Chan, of whom the Indians of Yaxha still speak with
great respect. They said he was acquainted with many medicinal herbs and
magic arts. As a hunter too he was possessed of many qualities now lost to

Hosted by

Google

BENQUE VIEJO. 73

the people. For example, when on the track of the wild boar he would lay
his ear to the ground and at once know whether the game was near and in
what direction it could be found, while others would find out nothing. He
was particularly well versed in old customs and usages, and they said that
if he were still alive he could guide me to many ruins, for he knew every-
thing in the forest, and the whereabouts of the ancient cities.

Even the increased plague of mosquitoes at Yaxh^ — a natural conse-
quence of the rising waters — is supposed to be connected with the death of
Julian Chan. After he had emigrated to British Honduras, already well ad-
vanced in years, he was murdered by one of his companions on account of
his wife, so the story goes : Le hahian en Yaxhd conseguido una mujer^ y %
agradecido^ prometio que, mientras el viviera, no hubiese plaga de mosquitosy pero
ahora que se muriOy volvio la plaga !

XXII.
BRITISH HONDURAS.

BENQUE VIEJO.

The modern village is on the right bank of the Rio Mopan, while the ancient Maya city

is not far from the left hank,

JANUARY, 1905.

On December 30, 1904, all was in readiness to leave the viviendas of
Yaxh^ and to emigrate to Benque Viejo. To make it as easy as possible for
my men, the large cayuco had been brought to Lake Sacnab through the
canal overgrown with bushes. Here, after taking a most friendly farewell
from the Indians of Yaxha, we embarked with our luggage. We paddled
on the waters of Sacnab some 5 km. in a northeasterly direction to the Paso
del Caribe, where we landed. The loads having been distributed, we took
the road through the forests. After the first hour's journey from the place
of disembarking, we reached the magnificent Aguada Santa Cruz, which is
probably an arm of Lake Sacnab. About two leagues beyond, not far from
the Cerro del Gavilan, we camped for the night near a small pond.

After three more marches, in part on very muddy paths through forests
in low tracts, hajiales^ we reached Plancha de Piedra, the tiny frontier town
of the Department of Peten, where, of course, there was a customhouse
officer, un resguardo^ to prevent the importation of contrabando.

The distance from Plancha de Piedra to the Rio Mopan, on the right side
of which Benque Viejo is situated, is scarcely more than two kilometers.
The river forms dangerous rapids near Benque Viejo and is crossed by
means of very widely built cayucos, to which the people of this country give

MEM. PEABODT MUSEUM IV. — 10.

Hosted by

Google

74 EXPLORATIONS IN BRITISH HONDURAS.

the curious name pitpan. This has been changed by the Hispanicized class
to pipante.

The alcalde of the place, Mr. Requena, a respectable man of African
descent, very kindly placed at my disposal one of the houses belonging to
the government ; since, however, I foresaw that it would be necessary for us
to remain here for some time, I hired a house which had been found by the
Tenosiqueros who had preceded me.

The name Benque Viejo means " old business settlement," but appar-
ently the word Benque is not used outside of Belice.

Benque Viejo is a small village with wretched, shabby houses and num-
bers barely three hundred souls. Its importance is due to the fact that it is
the central point for the chicle collectors roaming about in the forests, and
the thoroughfare for the wares which are brought from Belice to Peten.
Unfortunately, owing to perilous rapids, it is impossible to embark at Benque
Viejo and paddle down to Belice. Cayo de San Ignacio, some four leagues
beyond, is the shipping-point. The distance between Cayo and Benque has
to be travelled on beasts of burden.

Chictsapotl gum is the only article Peten exports on this line. The
Aztec name is tsictli (plural tsictin), from which is derived the Hispanicized
word chicle. The dazzlingly white sap, running down from the V-shaped
incisions made one above the other in the trunk of the tree, is evaporated
hi a kettle over a slow fire and melted into large pieces of a dark-brown
color, forming half a mule-load, and called marquetas.

These marquetas de chicle are taken in trade at Belice as ready money,
i. e.j exchanged for gold, and are the only means by which the Peten mer-
chant can convert his otherwise worthless Guatemalan silver into English
currency.

Unfortunately the exploitation of chicle hastens the downfall of the pop-
ulation of Peten, ruins agriculture and increases the demoralization of the
lower classes, naturally inclined as they are to all vices. No one will plant
a milpa, and even the poorest ragamuffin proudly refuses to do any work,
saying, Yo soy chiclero^ no necesito trabajar para nadie ! The result is that a
general famine occurs nearly every year in Peten, which would otherwise
yield an almost over-lavish abundance. For several years past the clear-
sighted Peten government has sought to counteract this terrible state of
affairs by compulsory laws, and the inhabitants of the villages are enjoined
every year to plant a certain area with maize. Such laws, however, are impos-
sible of permanent enforcement. It is difficult to compel a man to plant a
milpa, when he believes he can gain fivefold or even tenfold more by hiring
out as a chiclero. Hence all these chicleros are poverty-stricken, and being
heavily in debt, from which they can never free themselves, they no longer
have huts or milpas, and no regular wife and children ; for this unsettled life
in the forests, interrupted occasionally by debauches in this or that village,

Hosted by

Google

BENQUE yiEJO. 75

puts even the most unpretentious form of family life out of the question.
Therefore, many people think it would be best for the Guatemalan govern-
ment to grant no more permits for gathering chiclej since almost every one
suffers under the present conditions, not excepting the archaeological ex-
plorer who ventures into these districts.

On account of the religious festivals the chicleros were streaming into
Benque Viejo from the most remote forest, noisily demanding money from
their employers so that they too might enjoy life in their own way. Thus
from morning until late at night the streets were full of a noisy rabble, while
the air shook with the thunder of ordnance and exploding rockets. In
Spanish-Indian lands Christianity without bombas y cohetes is inconceivable.
As a matter of course general borrachera is an indispensable accompaniment
of such explosive Christianity.

Incidentally it may be said that the English authorities of Belice by no
means favor the immigration of the mestizo element from Mexico and Gua-
temala, which is always turbulent and scandalous in its behavior ; they much
prefer the extremely quiet, industrious, and peaceable Maya element, which
causes no inconvenience whatever.

The half-breed population, in the villages and small towns of Mexico
and Guatemala, is restrained to some extent, it is true, by the local au-
thorities, since the police make raids night and day upon the small liquor
tiendas and seize each noisy fellow by the collar and lead him oflF to the local
prison, where on the following day he is sentenced to one or two weeks'
hard labor or the payment of a miilta of 5 or 10 pesos. These fines, of
course, serve as a gold-mine for the always needy treasuries or pockets, but
the drawback is that in every instance where mozos are the offenders it is
the much harassed employer who has to pay, and not the evil-doer against
whom the muUa is merely written down in an account which is never paid.

The English authorities cannot furnish a policeman to look after each
half-breed. So long as the offender only runs about, screams and howls, and
does not commit an actual crime, such as theft, murder, or arson, he is not
imprisoned. If, however, a murder occurs, for example, then the excellent
negro police takes the matter very seriously and the evil-doer is irretrievably
lost — unless he succeeds in escaping at once to the other side of the Mopan.
Hence in Benque Viejo the machetes are not drawn and the revolvers remain
silent, but in other ways these people abuse the privileges accorded them on
English soil wherever and whenever they can. They screech and howl and
use such horribly lewd language, without regard to innocent girls or people
of a better grade of society, that no traveller may repeat what he is forced
to hear in this place.

Instead of imprisonment and fines, the English authorities endeavor in
another way to counteract the demoralization of the lower classes. Thus
on the Lord's Day even in Benque Viejo, this remote corner of the earth,

Hosted by

Google

76 EXPLORATIONS IN BEITISH HONDUEAS.

not a drop of brandy, wine, or beer may be sold to a thirsty soul ! Now,
what is the result of such a cruel law ? The people simply buy florida water,
which may be had on Sunday in every tienda, and drinking immoderately
of Murray and Lanman's perfumed water become more than commonly
intoxicated. Therefore the traveller, who has long since ceased to be sur-
prised at anything, finds all the streets and squares of Benque Viejo strewn
with empty florida water vials !

Naturally Benque Viejo appeared to my Tenosique vagabonds as the
embodiment of all terrestrial pleasures, a veritable paradise where they
would like to remain forever. Amid such a whirl of demoralization I had
the greatest difficulty in restraining even partially these men inclined by
nature to every vice. My most useless man became so insolent and de-
manded such high payment in advance, in order to indulge without restraint
in drinking and gambling, that I found myself forced to discharge him with
every mark of displeasure. This influenced the other two to be a little more
moderate in their pleasures.

My position was rendered desperate by the fact that the miserable
traders of Benque Viejo refused to sell me provisions (maize, meal, rice,
beans) and would not hire out to me a pair of mules, so that I might go to
the neighboring ruins ; on the other hand, these good-for-nothing, inconsider-
ate persons were very ready to sell my men brandy in any quantity they
desired, and also some canned meat. The fact is, that bales of chicle and
the selling of liquor constitute the ideal of these people ; anything beyond
exceeds their comprehension.

I bitterly repented having selected this wretched Benque Viejo for my
starting-point, but it is impossible to foresee all things. For future use I
have learned that it is necessary to bring your mules from Tabasco and have
your provisions brought up from Belice. A traveller cannot rely at all upon
the trade of Benque Viejo.

A peaceful and attractive scene is presented by the two small Maya
villages of El Arenal, situated above Benque Viejo, and Xocotes lying not
far below. They are inhabited by Indian families who have emigrated from
Peten villages and devote themselves wholly to agriculture and the raising
of small domestic animals. Immigration of this kind is regarded with favor
throughout Belice, and the Indians settled en terrenos de la Corona enjoy
absolute security. It never happens on English soil that the cattle of some
half-Spanish magnate, principalillo, can with impunity trample down the
crops laboriously planted by a man of less exalted station.

The village of Xocotes, only 2 km. from Benque Viejo, is especially
picturesque. It is built along the rocky, shaded banks of the Mopan,
and a limited quantity of maize, beans, and bananas may be bought here.
The road to Xocotes runs along the river, and I often walked thither, since
it was so near. The Aztec name xocotl, plural xoxoco {socotl^ sosoco) means

Hosted by

Google

BENQUE VIEJO. 77

fruit in general ; in this particular case the name refers to the spondia trees
(native species of ciruela) frequently occurring here, which, when bare of
foliage, are laden with fruit.

Fortunately my enforced stay in Benque Viejo could be employed in
thoroughly exploring a ruin lying on the other side of the river. This ruin
is only 2| km. distant in an air-line, and the principal edifice, ^^El Castillo
de dos Epocas," crowning an eminence, appears from the modern village
like a green, wooded height lying to the northwest.

The top of a natural elevation had evidently been levelled off to form
a large, rectangular terrace near the edges of which may be seen the
remains of small structures, while the centre is occupied by the two-storied,
main edifice.

Investigation of the confused mass of ruins of the main edifice showed
that in the earliest time the structure consisted of a single story with rooms
on all four sides, but naturally those on the north and south were specially
favored, since the principal facades faced north and south. This oldest build-
ing was, however, in a later epoch filled up with stones (a frequent occur-
rence in Maya buildings) and a second story was erected upon the first, with
stairways on the north and south.

Some desperate treasure seeker, by the way, had broken into this lower
building on the west side, and of course found nothing but stones upon
stones, which filled up the rooms.

The superstructure, erected upon the substructure, now completely
walled up and invisible, has no rooms on either the east or west side, but
there are three rooms on the north and on the south, each room having
a corresponding room in its rear, thus making twelve rooms in all.

The middle rooms are 820 cm. long, and those on the right and left are
532 cm. All the rooms are spanned by truncated, triangular, vaulted ceilings.

The exterior of the superstructure is 23 m. 24 cm. long, and 12 m.
52 cm. wide, these measurements corresponding also with those of the
substructure, excluding, of course, the reinforcing walls added later, which
form a passage before the entrances to the superstructure.

The height of the substructure and also that of the superstructure was
estimated at 6 m., L 6., 12 m. in all, to which should be added from 6 to 9 m.
for the roof-comb crowning the whole, which rises above the wall dividing
the north rooms from those of the south. In ancient time this stately roof-
comb must have been visible from a great distance, assuming that wide
tracts of tropical forests were at that period replaced by settlements and
tilled fields.

On mounting to the roof {h azotea) of the vaulted chambers the cheerful
gleam of the white houses of Benque Viejo is seen not far away in a
southeasterly direction.

Hosted by

Google

78

EXPLORATIONS IN BRITISH HONDURAS.

In spite of its badly ruined condition I succeeded in making a very good
plan of the Castillo de dos Epocas, which will facilitate the reader s com-
prehension of the building (Fig. 13).

From all the four slopes of the eminence artificially prepared for archi-
tectural purposes, chambers, terraces, -stairways, etc., had once been throw^n
out, but these have now been totally destroyed by the tropical vegetation.
Near the southeast corner there are, however, the ruins of a narrow, vaulted
passage, leading from south to north through the substructural mass. This
narrow passage is filled up to half its height with debris, and in this debris
I found many sherds of beautiful pottery vessels, fiery yellow and red in
color.

To the north of the eminence with the castle of two epochs, and not far
away, lies a group of perhaps a dozen wholly ruined temples {cuyos). Ex-

5 10 in. 08.

Fig. 13. — Benque Viejo : Ground-plan and Section of Temple.

ploring the ground in front of these ruined pyramids, which are by no means
insignificant, I found four stelae unsculptured and without appertaining
altars, a single large stela with a bas-relief on its south side and, lying
beside it, a square sacrificial altar likewise sculptured in bas-relief on its top.

The sculptured stela (Plate 19) stood on the south side of a pyramid,
which was doubtless the ruin of a massive foundation with a stairway on the
south leading up to the platform formerly surmounted by a small temple,
now entirely demolished.

The lowest piece of the stela, on which the sacrificial victim is repre-
sented, is still fixed in the buried cement pavement. The large piece broken
off above the prisoner, on which the personage of rank is pictured, I found
resting at a considerable inclination on one of its side-faces, and I placed it
in such a position that it could be photographed.

Hosted by

Google

BENQUE VIEJO. 79

•

The broken-off piece, which constitutes the main portion of the stela,
is 247 cm. long from the topmost corner of the sloping edge to the line of
fracture. To this measurement should be added about 60 cm. from the Une
of fracture to the base-line on which the victim lies face downward, and
about 50 cm. of plain surface down to the cement pavement, and perhaps
70 cm. for the part which is sunk in the cement pavement. The height
(length) of the stone was thus about 427 cm., of which 307 cm. belong to
the sculpture. The width of the stone at its centre was 127 cm., its thick-
ness, 40 cm. The back and both side-faces are smooth.

South side. Owing to the stone being much calcined by disastrous
milpa fires, the captive lying on his face and knees is almost entirely
effaced. The sculpture of the principal figure has suffered much from
torrents of rain, so that the outlines alone are still distinguishable, while the
finer details are destroyed. Only the feather-work background and parts
of the large helmet are well preserved. Apparently a kind of throne rose
above the captive, on which the priestly personage of high rank, who is
represented in front view, was enthroned either in Asiatic or European
fashion. In his extended right hand may be seen the little figure of a god
held by the leg ; his left hand, which is now quite indistinct, may have rested
on his right knee. His face, which is turned to the right, is much weather-
worn. The helmet, rising high above the head, probably has a large mask
in front. The feather crest flowing back and the large bunch of feathers
dividing at the top are still plainly visible. On the background of this relief
there seems to be a rectangular framework of rods ornamented with criss-
cross bands. From this framework graceful feather-work issues sideways
and upward. The rather porous limestone shows its natural, yellow color.
Traces of paint are no longer seen.

The square, sacrificial altar (Plate 18, Fig. 2), found near by, is carved
from hard limestone of a fine grain. The stone is only 22 cm. thick, 75 cm.
long, and 70 cm. wide. The sculpture on the top of the altar consists of a
skeleton represented in side view, crouching in a rectangular field surrounded
by a border of glyphs. The face is bent down mournfully, resting as it
were on the uplifted right arm, while the bony left arm, forming a right
angle, is held against the body. In the same rectangular field, in front of
the skeleton, are two vertical rows each containing seven larger glyphs, the
most of which are still to some extent distinguishable.

Notwithstanding the fact that this rare sculpture has suffered much
from the heavy rains of centuries and from disastrous milpa fires, the photo-
graph taken in the slanting sunlight came out very satisfactorily, after the
stone had been thoroughly wet in order to modify its much too light color.
And now, after probably more than a thousand years, the curiously conven-
tionalized Midlantecutli of Benque Viejo, so expressive of profound sadness,
still awakens in the beholder a sympathetic emotion of melancholy.

Hosted by

Google

80 EXPLORATIONS IN GUATEMALA.

XXIII.

DEPARTMENT OF PETEN, GUATEMALA,

NARANJO.

FEBRUARY, MARCH, APRIL, 1905.

The choice of the ruin upon which to begin operations, from among
those accessible from Benque Viejo and concerning which I had received
very full information from friendly Indians and half-breeds, was a difl&cult
problem. It was plainly impossible to carry on work at one and the same
time in all these cities with the wretched, human material at my command
and the absolute impossibility of obtaining the necessary quantity of pro-
visions. I finally decided to penetrate into the forest in a northwesterly
direction from Benque Viejo and to explore a forgotten district, which was
formerly called " El Naranjo " and where Benigno Silva's chicleros said that
they had seen several large ciiyos. and curious sculptures.

Therefore, at the end of January, I sent ahead the men at my disposal,
provided with from one to two weeks' provisions, with directions to explore
as far as possible the ruins at Naranjo, to excavate partially any sculptures
they might find, and to fell impeding trees that the light might penetrate,
etc. For the rest, it was left entirely to the option of the men, if their pro-
visions were exhausted and I was not on the way with new supplies, to
return to Benque Viejo, — a course which would meet with no disapproval
from me.

Meanwhile I had procured from surrounding Indian hamlets maize and
beans, had obtained rice, meal, and other articles from Cayo de San Ignacio,
and notwithstanding the greatest ill-will on the part of these people, I
finally induced a muleteer for large pay to transport my small amount of
baggage and the provisions to Naranjo, and exacted the promise that he
would return when my work there was finished, in order to take my be-
longings back to Benque Viejo.

At the beginning of February all was in readiness. Accompanied by
the muleteer I now went in person to Naranjo, — to this corner of the earth
hidden in the densest forest and never before visited by a European, the ex-
ploration of which I had no reason to regret.

The mules and luggage had to be taken across to the other side of the
Mopan. There we loaded up and took the road to the viviendas of Calacreek,
two leagues below Benque Viejo, now inhabited by only two or three families,
the rest having departed to more favored places. From here on we followed
chidero paths in a northwest direction on our way to Naranjo. Except for a
high and steep mountain, which was very hard for the mules on the last

Hosted by

Google

NAEANJO. 81

part of the trip, there were no special difficulties to be surmounted. A
league from the ruined city we came to the huts of one of Benigno Silva's
cUclerias, whose inmates, hearing the mules coming, greeted us with cries of
joy, thinking they were those of their employer bringing them provisions.
For several days these people had been without maize and flour,* and they
were grumbling and threatening to leave, and the encargado was in despair.
Great was their disappointment when they saw their mistake. The over-
seer, however, urgently besought me to leave him a bag of maize, with the
understanding that within eight days he would punctually return it at the
ruins. A bag of maize was quickly unloaded and given to the men.
Furthermore, I pacified them with the assurance that the mules of Benigno
Silva must already be on the way and would surely arrive very soon. Thus
even employers controlling great wealth have to contend with the same
difficulties as a lone traveller. Of what use are money and mules in places
where nothing can be bought and where provisions have to be obtained from
distant Belice or elsewhere with incalculable waste of time ?

The last league was finally covered, following the path which had been
opened by the men whom I had sent in advance. We had travelled about
nine leagues in three days.

My men had pitched their shelter huts on the north side of the acropolis,
the spot being not far from the large aguada. For myself — since there
were no rooms remaining in the badly ruined buildings of this city — the
men had found a small cave, where I could dispose the more important
luggage and undisturbed at night could attend to the photographic work.
This cave lay behind the building with Stelae 1-4 and not far from the

acropolis.

The muleteer, an agreeable man from Comitlan in the state of Chiapas,
took his departure the next morning. Since the few Indians, who accom-
panied me from San Jose, could not be depended upon to work more than a
week longer at the most, I immediately set about raising the heaviest stones,
digging out the hieroglyphic stairway, and, where it was necessary, cutting
away the thickest growth of trees, so that when forsaken by these capable,
positively priceless men, whom it is impossible to bind long to one's self, I
might be able to do the rest of the work with the two Tenosique vagabonds
and the substitute obtained in Benque Viejo — asad drunkard but, away
from towns with their seductions, he proved to be an extremely useful and
willing man.

Taking advantage day after day of the light, I slowly but surely made
photographic negatives of all the available sculptured stones. I made but
one architectural plan (Fig. 15), since not one faQade nor a perfect interior
had survived, owing to the terrible destruction of buildings by the rank,
tropical vegetation which envelops everything. But between times a plan
of the ruins as a whole was made, in which one by one the groups of build-

MEM. PEABODT MUSEUM IV. — 11.

Hosted by

Google

82 EXPLOEATIONS IN GUATEMALA.

ings and stelae were arranged in their order. This plan, which is extremely
useful in spite of unavoidable imperfections, plainly shows the exact posi-
tion of each of the sculptured stones and is the basis of my description (Fig.

14).

It is not my way to photograph a piece of sculpture and then send the
picture out into the world without an explanatory description, leaving every-
one quite ignorant as to where it was found. The explanation should state
whether the stone in question is a stela, which stood by itself, or belonged
to the lower, middle, or top terrace of a monumental building ; whether the
sculpture belonged to doorways or adorned the inner wall of a sanctuary ;
whether it is the undersculpture of a lintel, a stone belonging to a stairway,
or something else. This is important, because most sculptures are in some
way related to their surroundings and can be understood only in connection
with them. Unfortunately this golden rule is wholly disregarded by people
who regard the exploring of ruins as a mere idle pastime.

We will proceed in our description from west to east.

The west end of the city is formed by the acropolis, that is to say, by a
natural elevation the top of which has been levelled to form a large, rec-
tangular terrace and crowned by six buildings. Three of these buildings
had double rows of chambers, while the others had but one. Three still
show remnants of masonry. The edifices on the acropolis were in all proba-
bility buildings belonging to the state, and plainly none of them were temples.
For which reason no sculptured stones were found on this site. Half-way
up the north slope of the elevation there is a lower terrace.

Proceeding westerly from the acropolis the next object of interest is the
large aguada ; the water supply is always a vital question for all travellers.

A very short distance in an easterly direction from the northeast corner
of the acropolis, there is an oblong, fallen structure with some remains of
a foundation forming a terrace in front on the south side. The faQade of this
building must have faced the south, and below, at the foot of the terrace,
four stelae were set up, — three pushed somewhat forward and one standing
behind the middle one. There were no circular altars in front of these
stelae, since small offerings could be placed upon the smooth, cement floor.
All the stelae had been thrown down ; two were broken and much shattered.

Behind this building, not fifty paces distant, was my famous little cave
in which I lived for nearly three months happily and contentedly.

Stela 1, This is broken into three pieces and fell so that it lay in an
inclined position with the sculptured side upward. It is, therefore, so
weather-beaten that I made no attempt to photograph it. The breadth of the
stone at the centre was 92 cm.; the thickness, 33 cm.

South side. The height of the sculpture from the lower line of the base
to the very top is 220 cm., 24 of which belong to the base. The base consists
of some kind of symbolic scroll-work. Upon this stands the man of rank,

Hosted by

Google

NARANJO.

83

P
C

Ah

K
o

H

in

^ s

2

Hosted by

Google

84 EXPLORATIONS IN GUATEMALA.

represented in front view, his face turned to the left. All that is distin-
guishable is, that the man holds his left hand before his breast and carries
a small circular shield on his right forearm, which hangs at his side. On
the background there are 3 + 6 + 3 glyphs, all much weather-worn.

The back is smooth. On each narrow side there are two vertical rows
of incised (not bas-relief) glyphs, which, owing to their slight depth, have
become very indistinct.

Stela 2 (Plate 20, Fig. 1). The height or length of the stone is 408
cm.; breadth at the centre, 105 cm.; thickness, 46 cm.

Fortunately the stone had fallen to the ground with its magnificent
sculptured side turned downward, and was therefore well preserved. By
way of preface, it may be said that Stelae 2 and 13 are the two largest and
finest of Naranjo.

South side. The design on the base is 36 cm. high. The chief person-
age occupies 293 cm. from the line of the feet to the top. The base
shows the conventionaHzed head of a god, represented in profile with an
inverted T-sign on his forehead and with large, roundish ear-disc, above
which appears a smaller, profile face, while the same sign is again delicately
incised on the horizontal piece below it.

On the large glyph-base stands the warrior-chief represented in front
view, but with his face turned to the right. He wears tasteful and not
extremely high foot-gear, ornamented garters below his knees, and ribbed
cuffs. His handsomely decorated tunic, bordered with fringe, is held around
his waist, together with his doublet, by means of a sash knotted in front.
The border of large sea-shells below the sash may be considered as attached
to the doublet or to an intermediate piece of tiger-skin. Below the shell
border hangs a broad, ornamental flap or apron. The richly decorated
shoulder-pieces, bordered with fringe, doubtless belong to the doublet. Each
has a little inverted head with pendants. The breast-cape of round beads
is covered for the most part by the large horizontal breast-plate with a mask
placed horizontally upon it, hanging by two straps from the neck. The
warrior wears ear-ornaments but no nose-ornament. His handsomely orna-
mented helmet has a mask in front, above which a plume of feathers rises
for a short distance and then divides, drooping forward and backward ; while
at the back the ornamentation of the helmet ends in a crest of feathers
flowing downward. A feather cloak radiates from behind the shoulders.

The warrior holds in his right hand, hanging at his side, the familiar
"ornamental pouch" — in my opinion a sling (atlatl?) used in battle.
From his left forearm hangs a large shield bordered with fringe and with a
scrolled animal mask in a rectangular field; the hand is covered by the
shield and holds two javelins. On the upper background are five glyphs in
front of the face and helmet. Faint traces of red, on a delicate coating
of stucco, are perceptible on the legs, arms, and background.

Hosted by

Google

NARANJO.

85

The back of the stela is plain. Each narrow side bears traces of two
glyphs incised in outline, which have become obliterated.

Stela 3 (Plate 20, Fig. 2). Height or length of the stone is 245 cm. ;
breadth near the top, 1 m., and somewhat less near the bottom ; thickness,
35 cm.

South side. The relief from the bottom of the base to the extreme top
measures 198 cm., 21 cm. of which belong to the base. Owing to the pro-
bosciform prolongation of the upper lip, the large profile head of the base
seems to be the same as that pictured on Stela 2, and it likewise has a small
profile head resting upon the ear-ornament. The glyph in front of the large
head is accompanied by the numeral sign for 4.

The upper line of the glyph-base forms the base-line of the personage,
who is represented in front view with the face turned to the right. For the
present we shall consider this personage a woman of high rank, perhaps a
priestess, admitting, however, that we may be mistaken, because in some
instances, apparently, men of rank have also worn a kind of feminine skirt.
Her foot-gear is quite simple. Her skirt {la enagiia) adorned with trellis-
work is held in at her waist, together with a kind of chemise, by a wide belt,
displaying in front a square field with a (weather-worn) mask (?) and a large
pendant. The necklace or breast-cape is distinct. The head-ornament con-
sists of a large mask with plumes of feathers drooping backward. Some
ornamental object, with a bunch of feathers appearing near the right arm,
is held in her arms, which are crossed upon her breast. The background
displays 4 + 5+5 glyphs, which have become rather indistinct.

Though the stone had fallen with the sculptured face downward, it had
been affected by the moisture of the earth. The white oxidation of the
surface made it look as if it had received a coat of whitewash. In order to
photograph it, the entire sculpture had first to be covered with a brown wash
made of earth, as otherwise, owing to the dazzling whiteness, nothing would
have appeared on the plate.

The back is plain. Each narrow side had two vertical rows of delicately
incised glyphs, the most of which had become very indistinct, though a few
were distinguishable.

Stela Jf. This stela stood barely one meter behind Stela 2 and was
somewhat smaller than Stelae 1 and 3. The stone is broken into several
pieces, the lowest part is still in the ground. The sculpture on the south
side is so destroyed that it was barely possible to distinguish that it too
represented a man of rank.

Walking several hundred paces in an easterly direction from the place
on which stand the four stelae described above, we come to a group of build-
ings, on the south side of which four steps of square blocks of stone still in
place lead to a courtyard enclosed on the other three sides by buildings now
demolished. Through the middle of this courtyard runs a pavement lead-

Hosted by

Google

86 EXPLOEATIONS IN GUATEMALA.

ing from the western building to that on the east. The most important
part of this group of buildings was the western edifice, the main facade of
which must have faced the west ; at all events three large stelae stood on
this side below on the plaza. These stelae, however, were so weather-worn
that, though there were irregularities on the west side, no actual sculpture
could be distinguished.

Proceeding in a south-southwestern direction from these three stelae,
we come to a small heap of debris. The facade of the main edifice once
standing here must have faced the north, for in front of the centre of the
north side a stela of medium size still stands erect, to which I gave the

number 5.

Stela 5 (Plate 21, Fig. 1). Total height of the stone, 240 cm. ; breadth
in the middle, 90 cm. ; thickness, 37 cm. The back and sides are plain.

North side. The height of the sculpture is 181 cm. The chief personage
is represented in front view with his face turned to the right. His foot-gear
is simple. He wears a loin-cloth with a sash, the knot of which falls down
in front. He has cuffs and a double necklace of alligator's teeth. His
curiously made head-dress has what seems like a bird-head in front. His
right hand touches the edge of the stela. In his left hand is a round fan.
A small human figure crouches near his right foot. The background
displays 2 + 5 + 1 + 2 + 2 + 3 glyphs. Unfortunately this sculpture and
the glyphs have been seriously injured by torrents of rain, yet the outlines
can still be traced fairly well.

Advancing in an east-southeasterly direction from the stairway of four
steps of square hewn blocks, or easterly from the building with Stela 5, we
come to a natural elevation, which, however, had been given a rectangular
shape by leveUing off the top and there were probably stairways on all four
slopes. Above, on the large terrace thus formed, stand four buildings now
well-nigh destroyed : — a long building on both the east and west sides and
a smaller edifice on both the north and south. The ruins still show remains
of masonry, but no longer a complete room. No sculpture, only a stone
ring, was found above in the courtyard.

This second lofty citadel, as it may be called, stands on the west side

of a monumental square, the east side of which is occupied by the building

. with the tiger-head stairway, while the north side is closed by the large

oblong building with Stelae 6, 7, and 8, and the south side by the no less

important oblong building with Stelae 10 and 11.

The faQade of the north building naturally faced the south, and in front
of this side the three interesting sculptured stela — 6, 7, and 8 — stood in a
row. From the mass of d6bris it is apparent that the oblong superstructure,
which is now in utter ruins, rested upon a massive foundation.

Steh 6 (Plate 21, Fig. 2). The length or height of the stone is 215 cm. ;
greatest breadth, 61 cm. ; thickness, 34 cm. Both narrow sides are plain.

Hosted by

Google

NARANJO.

87

South side. The height of the sculpture from its base to the extreme
top is about 167 cm. A man of exalted priestly rank is represented in
front view with his head turned to the right. His foot-gear is tastefully
ornamented. His knee-ornciment consists of a single row of beads. His
skirt (or short breeches ?) is of tiger-skin with a row of beads at the bottom.
He wears an elaborate girdle having three face-masks with pendants. The
middle face is in front view, the other two in profile. Below his waist flows
a wide, ornamental flap reaching down so far that its tassel touches the
ground. He wears ribbed cuffs, wide breast-cape, mostly concealed by the
breast-plate, which is elaborately scrolled and lies horizontally. He has a
round ear-ornament, no nose-ornament, but a row of little knobs on his chin.
His helmet has a large mask, with a large plume of feathers and a small
feather crest issuing from the scroll-work which frames it. The priest holds
the ceremonial bar almost horizontally on both arms, so that his hands rest
upon the design of St. Andrew's crosses. The scroll-work jaws at each end
of the bar hold the large profile head of a god. On the background are
3 + 2 + 2 glyphs.

All traces of color had vanished and the sculpture was resplendent in
the beautiful yellow color of the limestone. After having wet the stone
thoroughly, as is my custom, and placed it in very strong sunlight, a nega-
tive was made, which shows all the details, even to the spotting of the piece
of tiger-skin.

North side. Unfortunately the rows of glyphs on the back are almost
completely worn away, so that this side was not photographed. The glyphs
were divided into 4 vertical rows of 11 glyphs each, 44 in all.

Stela 7 (Plate 22, Fig. 1). The greatest length or height of the stone
is 315 cm. ; breadth, 121 cm. ; thickness, 60 cm. The back and both narrow
side-faces are plain.

South side. Prom the base-line of the sacrificial victim lying prostrate
to the top of the sculpture is 243 cm., 20 cm. belonging to the victim.
Below the captive is a horizontal band of glyphs 9 cm. in height. These
glyphs have almost completely scaled oflF. Owing to the extensive scaling,
only the legs and crossed feet of the victim are distinguishable. The
high priest standing on the captive is represented in front view with his
face turned to the right. His foot-gear is simple ; his knee-ornament is of
round beads with a medallion face attached to the front. The tunic is of
tiger-skin with a border of fringe. The girdle with large shell pendants
has in front a large face-mask with triple pendants, half covered up by the
ceremonial bar. Below the girdle hangs a wide ornamental flap on which a
large, grotesque face may be discerned. The broad breast-cape displays six
rows of beads. A grotesque death's-head, lying horizontally, serves as a
breast-plate. This can be distinguished on the photograph by turning the
latter on the edge to the observer's right. A chin tuft is plainly seen on the

Hosted by

Google

88 EXPLORATIONS IN GUATEMALA.

otherwise somewhat weather-worn face. His ear-ornament is round and his
helmet consists of a large, snouted face overhung by tall feather-work droop-
ing forward and backward, while a handsome, sweeping crest forms the
finish at the back. In his arms the priest holds almost horizontally the
ceremonial bar, having at each end large conventionalized jaws holding
the fierce, grotesque face of a god. From the jaws, in addition to these
faces, scrolls extend upward with a second, smaller face nestling in a curve.
On the left side of the personage of rank {i.e., on the observer's right) a
second captive, his arms bound together with cords, kneels in an attitude
of entreaty. His tuft of hair waving upward is held together by narrow
bands. On the background are 2 + 4 compound glyphs arranged vertically,
and 2 simple ones are placed obhquely near the second captive, to whom
they probably refer.

The stone has many slight imperfections, which were formerly filled in
with a very superior kind of stucco. Especially oji this stuccoing (into
which the color sinks to a depth of 1 mm.), but also elsewhere on the figure,
there are distinct traces of a beautiful red color, and as no other coloring
is discernible, I presume that the entire sculptured surface was painted
a fiery red.

Stela 8 (Plate 23, Figs. 1, 2). Greatest length or height of the stone
was 249 cm.; greatest breadth, 90 cm.; thickness, 19 cm. Both narrow
sides are plain.

South side. The measurement from the base-line of the prostrate
victim to the base-line of the high priest is 22^ cm., and from this line to
the extreme top is 164 cm.

The victim, lying prostrate on the ground with legs drawn up, has his
arms bound together across his back. His upper arm displays a delicately
incised glyph and his body three more, which are now wellnigh invisible.

The high priest is represented in front view with his face turned to the
right. His foot-gear is quite plain. The bottom of his tiger-skin skirt is
cut so that each side slants upward toward the centre and is bordered with
fringe. The girdle with crisscross pattern and fringe of shells has in front
a large framed mask with pendants, and below the girdle a flap of tiger-skin
hangs in front, the lower portion of which is cross-hatched, while prob-
ably from the back of the girdle hangs a sash ending in a flower which
appears near the left foot. He wears cuffs with a St. Andrew's cross. A
short feather cloak is thrown across his shoulders. The breast-plate has
scrolls turning to the right and left. The ear-discs are of concentric rings
with a border of beads. The little band, issuing obliquely from the small
hole in the ear-disc, reaches to the curiously pronged chin-ornament border-
ing the lower part of the face. The nose-ornament is a stone bead with long,
drooping feathers. The eye is encircled by a line proceeding from the edge
of the helmet. His helmet has in front a small mask overtopped by a larger

Hosted by

Google

NAEANJO. 89

one, above which the tall feather plumes bend forward and backward, while
a large feather crest is attached to the small symbolic addition at the back.
A repetition of the upper part of the ornamental lance with inserted sacri-
ficial knife rests obliquely on the feather crest, and because of this I con-
jecture that the figure is specifically that of a high priest who performed
sacrificial rites. The priest holds in his right hand a ceremonial lance with
lattice-work ornamentation, ending at the top in conventionalized jaws hold-
ing the flint lance or sacrificial knife (displaying oblique lines and dots).
(This lance resembles the similar one on Stela 1 of Itsimte-S^cluk.) His left
hand holds a pretty, round fan with radiating design. On the background
are 3 + 4 + 4 glyphs still well preserved. The colors have disappeared.

North side. Here are 4 vertical rows of glyphs in bas-relief, each row
containing 10, making 40 in all. Even on the supposition that all the
delicate lines and dots of the glyphs have disappeared, they are in the main
still fairly well preserved and can serve purposes of decipherment.

The east side of the plaza is occupied by the palace with the tiger-head
stairway, its main fagade facing west.

In front of the west side of this edifice, near the northwest corner,
below on the plaza stood the small stela. No. 9. No companion-piece to this
stela was found on the southwest corner.

Stela 9 (Plate 22, Fig. 2). Greatest length or height of the stone is
290 cm. Breadth at the base of the sculpture is 48 cm. ; at the top, near
the row of glyphs, 83 cm. ; thickness, 48 cm. The back and both narrow
sides are plain.

West side. Height of the sculpture from the knees of the victim to
the top of the glyphs is 220 cm. On the base-line the victim is seen,
supporting himself on his elbows and knees, forming as it were a bridge
upon which the priest stands, while a second victim in an attitude of
supplication stands erect on the priest's left. The priest is represented in
front view, but with his face turned to the right.

Despite extensive disintegration we can see the skirt of tiger-skin held
around the waist by a very wide girdle decorated with three faces, and the
broad flap hanging down in front, also a breast-cape or cloak, covered in
front by a grotesque face lying horizontally with four-fold pendant hanging
down over the ceremonial bar. His helmet is crested by an extremely tall
tuft of feathers, which finally curves and streams out horizontally toward
the front. In both arms the priest holds a narrow, ceremonial bar with
large conventionalized jaws at each end, where the usual grotesque face of
a god is now worn away almost beyond recognition.

Above the figure of the priest is a horizontal beam, and above this is a
space containing two persons ; one sitting in European fashion on a throne,
and the other squatting on the floor before the altar standing between the
two. A long feather flabellum, bending down to the horizontal beam, ap-

MEM. PEABODY MUSEUM IV. — 12.

Hosted by

Google

90

EXPLORATIONS IN GUATEMALA.

pears at the back of the first person, while behind his head a snake stretches
backward, and above the head of the second person there is also a snake,
which, however, writhes forward. Three weather-worn glyphs are in the
background in front of the first person, and two or three above the second.

The finish at the top of the stela is formed by two horizontal rows of
eight glyphs each, which are now entirely washed off.

It is deplorable that the sculpture on this stela, which is narrow at the
bottom but broadens out at the top, has suffered so much from the effect of the
weather, since it differs from all the other stelae in its arrangement. Well
brushed off and wet so that it shone, the sculpture came out as it appears
on the plate.

While I believe that the building to which Stelae 6, 7, and 8 belong, and
also that with which Stelae 10 and 11 are connected, were temples with an
oblong ground-plan resting on a massive foundation, I cannot convince my-
self that the palace of two stories with the tiger-head stairway on the sub-
structure was a temple ; I prefer to consider it a building belonging to
the state.

From the level ground on the west side of this building rises a stairway
with great steps leading to a platform from which — somewhat receding —
a second stairway with smaller steps leads to the upper platform. From
this platform rises a rectangular structure of two stories, whose length may
be estimated at about 19J m., while it is 11 m. 70 cm. in breadth. The
height of the foundation is about 7 meters and that of each story about
b^ meters, that is to say, the former height was about 18 meters.

c/^. c^.

Fig. 15. — Naranjo : Ground-plan and Section of Palace of the Tiger-head Stairway.

Unfortunately the superstructure is so utterly demolished that it was
no longer possible to sketch its actual plan. Yet on the basis of some ves-
tiges preserved on the north and south sides, I restored approximately the
former plan (Fig. 15). This work was rendered the more difficult by
the fact that in later epochs certain reinforcements had been inserted in the
rooms on the east and west sides, since the architects mistrusted the power
of the inner walls to sustain the great pressure of the second story resting

Hosted by

Google

NARANJO.

91

* *
1 \*

i

*•_

• ■''.

K

iie-ff.

upon the middle rooms. In every instance the best rooms were thus nar-
rowed and shortened in just the way architects in Europe sometimes improve
and sometimes spoil ancient buildings.

I believe the original plan contained three rooms on the east side and
three on the west, which were altered into five by the later insertion of
supporting walls. From the first, the rooms in
the centre were divided differently ; there
being a pretty little cabinet on the north with
entrance from the north, and another on the
south with an entrance from the south. In ad-
dition, each cabinet had a small doorway open-
ing into the adjoining east and west rooms.
While the outer entrances to the cabinets were
spanned by round beams laid horizontally, each
connecting little doorway was spanned by a

gracefully curved, stepped arch (Fig. 16). Two of these small doors, how-
ever, were walled up by the restless inmates, who never knew what they
wanted. The small vaulted ceilings, which are still preserved in the cab-
inets, are of the usual triangular shape and are truncated at the top.

The second story was placed upon the middle rooms of the first story
and is now wholly demolished, but its existence can be proved from certain
fundamental remains. The flat roofs (azoteas) of the vaulted east and west
rooms formed a passageway to the rooms of the second story. We may
assume that a wooden stairway led up to these chambers, since there are no
remains of a stone stairway.

Fig. 16.-

• Arched Doorway of
Palace.

m

§

1

|2|

|3|

\4\

5

( rrmi'\ nrrn )' irrm/

€

F

1^1

9\

@

m
II
I

Fig. 17. — Nabanjo: Plan of Tiger-head Stairway.

The lowest stairway of the substructure, composed of four great steps,
has a length of 11 m. 44 cm. Each step is 50 cm. high. The steps consist
of stone slabs about 30 cm. thick, which are placed upright and are filled in
at the back with stone and cement. Of course, most of these slabs were out
of place and, after felling the trees, those covered with inscriptions had to
be dug out and placed in position (Fig 17).

Step I. Perfectly plain.

Step 11. This step has in the centre three tiger-heads in a row, and to
the right and left of them a large inscribed slab and four smaller ones
(Plates 24-28).

Hosted by

Google

92 EXPLORATIONS IN GUATEMALA.

The little, rounded, rectangular inscription-fields measured on the outer
edge were 36 cm. high by 40 cm. long. Each contained 4 glyphs. The
two larger inscription slabs, Nos. 5 and 6 (Plates 26 and 27), each contained 9
large elaborate glyphs, and the inscribed space of the fifth slab measured
on the outer edge 61 cm. high by 76 cm. long, while that of the sixth was
64 cm. high by 79 cm. long. The stones themselves have a height of 73 cm.
and a length of 90 cm.

Particularly the glyphs on the two stone slabs, Nos. 5 and 6, are
extremely rich in detail, as may be seen from the large photograph of
them. Naturally, owing to the desperate complexity — " enchevetrement/'
as the French say — of the inscriptions, any attempt at description is out
of the question, and in examining the glyphs the observer becomes con-
vinced of the great difficulty of deciphering them without a key. Bishop
Landa's alphabet has never been of use in deciphering the Maya inscrip-
tions. Where the picture-writing is not so hopelessly complex, the deci-
pherment does not appear to be so difficult. Thus, at the first glance, we
recognize the sign for oxlahiin-aliaukaUun^ thirteenth series of years, at the
bottom of the fifth slab on the left. Furthermore, let me call attention to
the fact that the expressive rodent head at the bottom of the fifth slab
on the right and in the centre of the sixth may be that of the tepe-itscuintli^
little mountain dog, a small animal, several of which we shot on our ex-
pedition, and which my always hungry Tenosiqueros invariably ate with
good relish. I also always received a small piece of this roast, which is
much afiected by connoisseurs. In attempting to decipher the inscriptions,
it would be necessary to apply the Maya name for the little mammal, haleb
or haleii^ although it is now called by its Aztec name also in Yucatan. To
us, while eating it, its name was quite a matter of indifference.

Some of the inscribed stones — as may be seen on the respective
photographs — are covered with delicate tracery of roots converted into
lime, which could not be brushed off. Rainwater continually dissolves
small particles of lime which in the course of time replaces the vegetable
cells in dead roots.

The tiger-heads are 52 cm. high and 55 cm. broad. The under jaw of
these heads is not fully carried out ; it consists of a sort of band with nine
little holes in the middle head and ten in the others. Vestiges of red are
still visible on these tiger-heads.
Step III. This is perfectly plain.

Step IV, The fourth step has at each end a field of glyphs, which may
be designated Nos. 11 and 12 (Plate 24, Fig. 2). All the remaining stones
were uncarved.

Thus 12 inscriptions are offered for study, distributed on five plates.

Plate 25 : — Nos. 1, 2, 3, 4. Plate 26 : — No. 5. Plate 27 : — No. 6.

Plate 28 : — Nos. 7, 8, 9, 10. Plate 24 : — Fig. 2, Nos. 11, 12.

Hosted by

Google

NARANJO. 93

Certain changes in this stairway were likewise made in later time, as
we learned while searching for the missing half of the eighth inscribed stone.
The missing half never came to light ; in its place we dug up a stone of
a different kind, which I regard as a lintel slab, un dintel (Plate 29), from
an ancient building. To make it possible to join this stone slab to the
broken stone, it had been rudely dressed at both ends and also on its upper
edge. The present length of the stone is 70 cm. The former breadth,
adding mentally the small portion hewn from the upper edge, was 50 cm.
The inscription proper had a width or height of about 37 cm. The inscrip-
tion contains four horizontal rows of glyphs, which plainly disproves that
the stone was ever part of a stela. ^ glyphs of each row are still preserved.

The finding of stone lintels in cities where wooden beams were almost
wholly used for spanning doorways is an extremely important matter, and,
mutilated though it is, the finding of this stone should therefore be a subject
for rejoicing.

The monumental stairway of Naranjo, with its 3 tiger-heads, 12 in-
scriptions and 1 additional stone, cannot of course be compared with the
hieroglyphic stairway on the west side (as here) of one of the principal
temples of Copan, which was explored with such great diligence and
perseverance by John G. Owens and George Byron Gordon during the
expeditions of the Peabody Museum in 1891-95.^ Nevertheless it is pos-
sible that the students of Maya antiquities will take special pleasure in the
Naranjo stairway, because every one of its inscribed stones is complete in
itself and is independent of the others, and also because the photographs
of them are large and distinct.

Indeed, the question arises, why should not future explorers photo-
graph all the well preserved inscriptions in a size similar to Slabs 5 and 6 ?
In most cases, it is true, as can readily be calculated, this would entail great
expense and labor. Calculating 6 glyphs (3 in the sense of height) to a
celluloid plate 10 x 12 inches, each narrow face having 2 x 18 glyphs.
Stela 24 of Naranjo would require 6 celluloid plates, or 12 in all. Each
narrow face containing 2 x 20 glyphs, Stela 22 would require 7 celluloid
plates, 14 in all. Each narrow face, containing 2 x 22 glyphs, Stela 23
would require 7 J plates, 15 in all. And so on. Perhaps this would be a
little too expensive.

The south side of the plaza is occupied by the south structure, the
former fa9ade and stairway of which faced the north. At half the height of
the massive foundation, a large, levelled area joins on at the back. The
superstructure, once not inconsiderable, is now wholly demolished. In front
of the north side of this building stood two stelae, Nos. 10 and 11.

Stela 10 (Plate 30, Fig. 1). Its total height or length is 266 cm.;

1 Memoirs Peabody Museum, Vol. I, No. 1, pages 21-22, Plates V, IX; Vol. I, No. 6, pages 1-
38, Plates I-XVIII.

Hosted by

Google

94 EXPLORATIONS IN GUATEMALA.

breadth, 113 cm. ; thickness, 57 cm. The back and both narrow faces are
plain.

North side. This face has an inscription 180 cm. high by 41 cm. wide,
containing 2 vertical rows of 11 glyphs each, 22 in all. The relief- work has
a good projection and is well rounded out. The many small holes in the
otherwise very hard, yellowish limestone were once carefully filled in with
stucco.

Stela 11 (Plate 30, Fig. 2). Greatest height or length of the stone is
358 cm. ; breadth, 95 cm. ; thickness, 39 cm. The stone was broken into
three pieces, but I have joined them together as well as possible. Both
narrow faces are plain.

North side. Height from the base-line under the body of the prostrate
captive to the extreme top is 283 cm., of which the captive occupies from
25 to 27 cm.

On a man, doomed to be sacrificed and lying with his knees, breast, and
face on the ground, stands the warrior-chief represented in front view with
his face turned to the right. His foot-gear is simple. The long garment
{chlamys) has an oval opening at the top for passing the head through and
slits on the sides for the arms. It is profusely ornamented with feathers,
which have a radial arrangement around the neck-opening, and there are
also five rows reaching to the bottom of the garment. Where the fall of
feathers does not cover the long garment, a design of small rectangles
appears. A large necklace of alligator's teeth hangs down over the
warrior's chest, and from it is suspended an inverted head or face with long
hair hanging downward. He wears a nose-ornament consisting of a bead
with short feathers, and round ear-discs from which proceeds the pronged
chin-border. The eye seems to be encircled, as in Stela 8. The helmet dis-
plays in front the small grotesque face of a god, and a tall bunch of feathers
droops forward and backward, while four death-masks in the form of rays
are placed on a crest of feathers proceeding upward and down the back of
the helmet. The four masks on the other side are invisible. In his right
hand the warrior holds a long, plain staff, and a round shield with a fierce
Tlaloc face hangs on his left forearm. Above on the background near the
face are four glyphs in a vertical row.

South side. The stone, hurled to the ground by a falling tree, lay with
its back turned to the sky. Hence the glyphs on the back have been en-
tirely washed off by the rains of centuries. All that can be distinguished is
that the inscription was divided into four vertical rows, each containing
about fourteen glyphs ; they can no longer be accurately counted.

East of the palace of the tiger-head stairway there is another large plaza
surrounded on all four sides by large monumental edifices, the west side, of
<30urse, being occupied by the palace described above.

On the north side, on a partly artificial mound of rocks, rises what was

Hosted by

Google

NAEANJO. 95

once a considerable structure of an oblong ground-plan — probably a temple.
The facade of this edifice was on the south ; and in front of it, below on the
plaza, Stelae 12, 13, and 14 stand side by side.

Stela 12 (Plate 31, Figs. 1, 2). The height or length of the stone is
270 cm.; breadth at the top, 88 cm.; at. the bottom, somewhat less; thick-
ness, 36 cm. Both narrow side-faces are smooth.

South side. 24 cm. of the height of the sculpture belongs to the captive
man (or woman?), and 176 cm. from the back of the victim to the extreme
top, to the priest.

It is impossible to tell whether the doomed individual, lying with the
breast flat upon the ground and the knees drawn in close to the bod}^, is
male or female. The creature is evidently deformed and was fattened
especially for sacrifice and perhaps to be eaten at the feast to follow. The
face displays the lowest racial type, yet the head and ears have some sort
of feather ornament. The fat arms are bound on the back. The round
breast, with a second curve and other accumulations of fat, make it doubt-
ful whether the figure is that of a man or a woman. To increase the confu-
fusion the sculptor — perhaps as a joke — has finished off the monster's
extremely fat body with a tail. This tail, it is true, might be the end of a
girdle hanging down behind, if the naked creature wore a girdle.

The very elaborately attired priest, standing on the back of the sacrifice,
is pictured in front view, turning his face to the right. His feet, as usual,
are spread apart. The heel of each buskin displays a grotesque face, and there
is a double tassel on each instep. The priest wears a tunic of tiger-skin with
a border of fringe at the bottom. His elaborate girdle, with a pendent edge
of shells, is adorned with three large faces, each having a pendant. The face
on the left side is hidden by the jaws at the end of the ceremonial bar.
There is a St. Andrew's cross between each two masks. From the girdle,
below the middle mask, hangs a richly ornamented and scrolled flap, its
feather trimming extending to the masks on the heels. He wears ribbed
cuffs, a breast-cape of three rows of beads, with a death's-head placed hori-
zontally like a breast-plate, a bracelet with medallion face on his upper arm,
round ear-ornaments, but no nose-ornament. The lofty helmet displays the
grotesque head of a god, surrounded by various symbolic accessories (among
these are small grotesque faces), and it is overshadowed by a huge bunch of
feathers and a feather crest.

With both arms the priest holds obliquely across his breast the cere-
monial bar adorned with crisscross patterns and ending, as usual, on the
right and left in jaws and scrolls, the jaws at each end holding a god's face.
The god's face on the observer's left might be that of Ehecatl, god of winds,
on account of its long proboscis. There are four glyphs on the background.

North side. At the bottom there is a horizontal band of six glyphs,
which is 10 cm. high. Above this extends a field containing many glyphs*

Hosted by

Google

96 EXPLORATIONS IN GUATEMALA.

Measured on the inside line of the edge, it is 161 cm. high, 69 cm. wide at
the bottom, and 73 cm. at the top. The inscription contains 6 vertical rows
of 15 glyphs each, i. e., 90 glyphs in all, making 96 glyphs when those of the
bottom row are included. Though all the delicate lines and dots have dis-
appeared, the main form of the glyphs is still clear.

Stela 13 (Plate 32, Figs. 1, 2). The greatest height or length of the
stone is 445 cm. ; breadth, measured at the centre, is 94 cm. ; thickness,
35 cm. Again I would call attention to the fact that Stelae 2 and 13 are the
two most imposing stelae of Naranjo. This impression is not conveyed by
the photographs, which were taken on the same scale as the others. The
top of Stela 13 ends in a narrow, pointed arch. This stela was not thrown
upon the ground, but was inclined to the earth at an angle of 30°. Much
labor was expended in bringing this enormous stone into a position suitable
for photographing. Both narrow sides are plain.

South side. The lowest part, which is plain, occupies 96 cm., while the
sculpture, from the base-line under the body of the prostrate captive to the
pointed top, measures 349 cm. Of the latter only 16 cm. belong to the
captive who is pressed close to the ground. Three little glyphs are incised
on the left thigh of the captive.

The high priest or ahaucan stands on the victim's back. He is repre-
sented in front view with his face turned to the right. His shoes have a
cross on the side of each heel and the grotesque face of a god in front at the
ankle. The garters or knee-ornaments are covered by the flap or apron, but
the medallion faces attached to them are distinguishable in profile. Very
little of the skirt is visible, but it may be noted that a kind of short chain
with crossribbed ends hangs down obliquely on each side of the skirt. The
girdle with shell pendants — another beautiful specimen — is adorned with
three large, framed-in faces with pendants, separated by St. Andrew's
crosses. (The face on the left is hidden by the 4eft arm hanging at the
side.) The flap hanging from the middle of the girdle is richly ornamented
and scrolled, the tassel at the bottom reaching down to the feet. The
frontal ornament on the flap always represents the well-known face with
goggle-eyes, snub-nose, and the two stepped upper-teeth in the open
mouth.* This representation is often found on the flaps or aprons of male
personages on the stelae of Naranjo and elsewhere : compare, for example,
the grotesque face of " the broken idol " (or Stela 2 of Seibal). The round
shoulder-pieces with cross bands belong probably to the breast-cape, which is
composed of little squares, A bead bracelet is also visible on the upper part

1 I wish to state here that the faces with goggle-eyes can in no way be considered as Tlaloc-
faces (which are of an entirely difPerent type) as has been erroneously stated, through a misunder-
standing of the editor, in the description of Siebal, page 16 : - Dr. E. Seler believes that aU these
strange faces with goggle-eyes represent the Sun-god (Kinichahau). This may be, but never the Aztec
Tlaloc!

Hosted by

Google

NAKANJO.

97

of his left arm. On his breast there is a double breast-plate, as it were.
The oval of the upper disc shows four barely visible but delicately carved
knobs on a background of scrolls, in addition to the distinct knobs within the
outer scrolls on either side. The lower part of the breast-plate displays a
large death's-head lying horizontally, with three short bars radiating to the
right and to the left. The priest wears ribbed cuffs, a nose-ornament com-
posed of a stone bead with two feathers, and a round ear-ornament. There
is a row of tiny knobs upon his chin and apparently a narrow band with a
miniature head in front, close to the neck below the chin. A stripe, running
from the nostrils and forming right angles, borders his mouth. His face,
with its large, aquiline nose, shows the higher racial type of the ruling class
of nobles. The helmet displays the grotesque face of a
god with goggle-eye and snout-like nose, above which rise
C-scroUs and a holder containing a bunch of feathers, while
a feather crest forms the finish at the back. In his uplifted
right hand the priest holds out a small idol with snouted
face of Ehecatl, god of the winds, common to the Aztecs
and Mayas. According to the general rule, the Uttle leg by
which the image is held develops into a serpent, the head
of which appears by the priest's cuff and is turned back-
ward over the rounded edge to the narrow, western side-face
of the stela, and is therefore invisible on the photograph.
Its protruding tongue divides into two scrolls. By the
priest's left hand, which hangs at his side, is an object very
like a brush. On the background are 6 + 8 + 3+3 glyphs,
20 in all. The six glyphs below the left hand, which are
not distinct in the photograph, are reproduced in Fig. 18.

North side. An inscription, which is 253 cm. high by
61 cm. wide, measured'^bn the inside line of the edge, con-
tains 4 vertical rows of 16 glyphs each, 64 glyphs in all.
These glyphs are tolerably well preserved and show many
forms seldom found elsewhere. I will call attention only to
the fourth glyph of the third row, in which a profile face placed aslant is
joined to one in an upright position.

In excavating the stone, which was in a desperately inconvenient posi-
tion, and removing the debris which had fallen down from the temple above,
we found one of those rare, flint crescents with pronged edge (9 cm. in
diameter), which were used as ear-ornaments. This specimen was added to
the large collection of flints which came to light in excavating Stela 15 and
is shown in Fig. 19, a.

Such excavations always bring to the light very rare small reptiles,
which live hidden in the ground and are never seen elsewhere. Thus we
found again the pretty little tiger-lizard, rose-colored and spotted with

MEM. PEABODY MUSEUM IV. — 13.

<;

W\

Fig. 18. — Glyphs
BELOW Left Hand
OF Figure, Stela
13.

Hosted by

Google

98

EXPLOEATIONS IN GUATEMALA.

Fig. 19. — Naranjo: Flint Objects Found While Excavating Stelae 13 and 15, Three-
eighths Natural Size.

Hosted by

Google

NAEANJO. 99

black ; a small black lizard of a very curious shape ; a small, beautifully
ringed coral-snake, and a toad which the Spaniards call " mazamorra/* prob-
ably because it lives in its dark, subterraneous prison.

Stela 14 (Plate 33, Figs. 1, 2). Total height or length of the stone when
joined together was 357 cm.; breadth at the centre, 76 cm. ; thickness, 31
cm. Both of the narrow sides are smooth.

South side. The sculpture, measured from the line upon which the
woman sacrifice lies, to the extreme top, is 265 cm. high. Of this height 31
cm. belong to the victim, measuring from the base to the priest's sandals.

The fattened sacrifice, with legs and feet drawn up, lies on the ground
on her right side, thus giving a front view of her round face, like the woman
sacrifices of Stelae 21 and 24, a position which much facilitates the determi-
nation of the racial type. The not unattractive face of the woman, who is
evidently resigned to her fate, has round eyes, snub-nose, a pretty little
mouth and, if we may venture the remark, somewhat elongated ears. Her
abundant hair falls to the ground.

The holy man, doubtless a priest, who does not scorn to make a foot-
stool of a poor woman sacrifice, closely resembles in costume and posture
the personage represented on Stela 12. He is pictured in front view with
his face turned to the right. His shoes have grotesque masks at the back
of the ankles, but no large tufts on the insteps. He wears leg-bands or gar-
ters with small medallion faces in front. His tunic is probably of tiger-skin,
but is mostly hidden. His large, elaborate girdle has three framed masks
with pendants, that on the left side being covered by the head of a god at-
tached on that side. His girdle has a border of shell pendants and a St.
Andrew's cross between the masks. On the middle mask, represented in
front view, three little indented knobs are curious. Those on the right and
left might indeed be looked upon as ear-ornaments, but that on the forehead
remains unexplained. The flap, appearing below the middle mask, again
shows the face with goggle-eyes and is bordered by scrolls. It ends in an
owl mask {tecolotl) and a wide fringe of feathers. The priest wears ribbed
cuffs and his breast-cape consists of three rows of little square plates. A
death's-head, lying horizontally, might be considered a breast-plate. There
are shoulder-pieces or armlets with medallion faces. He wears round ear-
discs, but no nose-ornament. In particular the helmet of this priest shows
details so similar to that of the priest on Stela 12, that the two photographs
can be better understood if they are placed side by side. The priest's
head-dress below the upper jaw of the grotesque god-mask has a similar,
projecting, profile face on a small scale in front, and a full-face mask incised
on the side. The half god-mask (for in such representations the under jaw
is wanting) always has the roijnd goggle-eye and the snout-like nose. The
frontlet of the mask has a profile face attached in front and a full face on
the side (as in Stela 12, but more distinct). Feather plumes and a feather

Hosted by

Google

100 EXPLORATIONS IN GUATEMALA.

crest finish the head-dress. With both arms the priest holds obliquely
across his breast the ceremonial bar with crisscross ornamentation. The two
jaws with their god-faces are well preserved, and comparison with these might
determine whether the same gods were invariably held up to the people, or
different ones at different times. On the background are 3 + 5 + 4 glyphs.

North side. In falling to the ground the stone broke in two pieces and
lay with the relief side downward and the inscription upward. This prob-
ably occurred only a few years ago, for which reason the inscription was
sufficiently well preserved to be photographed. At the bottom of this north
side three glyphs are incised in the stone, a little apart from one another.
Measured from the inside line of the edge, the inscription proper is 182 cm.
high by 57 cm. wide and contains 4 vertical rows of 12 glyphs each, that
is, 48 glyphs in all.

The east side of the plaza was occupied by a long building now in ruins,
the facade of which faced the west, as did also the stairway of the fairly high
foundation leading to the upper platform. To the narrow southern side of
this massive foundation a left wing has been added, which was half the
height of the foundation and is now also demolished.

Above, on the edge of the platform of the main edifice, formerly stood
the sculptured stela, No. 15. Below at the base, in front of what was prob-
ably a stairway, stood Stelae 16 and 17, while in front of the left wing stood
the beautifully inscribed Stela 18 in all its glory.

In addition there stood on the plaza, a little to the right but somewhat
in advance of Stelae 16 and 17, three tall, smooth stelae of roundish form,
which now lie broken upon the ground.

It cannot be positively stated whether this elongated building was once
a temple or a hall of justice. The three columns on the plaza may, however,
have been columns of justice and who knows whether the inscribed stela —
which now, alas ! has scaled off — did not contain the tables of the law ?

Stela 15. The breadth of the excavated, upper portion is 103 cm.;
thickness, 30 cm. This stela stood above in the centre on the edge of
the platform, but the piece broken off, which is 153 cm. long, was hurled
down and remained buried in the debris rising to half the height of the
substructure.

The west side with the bas-relief was entirely scaled off. The east side
displayed unevenness from natural causes, as I believe, and a petrified
star-fish 30 cm. in diameter.

Both narrow sides showed remains of a row of glyphs, the details of
which were well worked out. They were not in bas-rehef, but incised.

During the excavation of this " star-fish stela" quite a collection of very
interesting flint ornaments, twenty-four in number, came to light (Fig. 19).
Among them were crescents, such as are seen as ear-ornaments on certain
stelae of Yaxha and Tikal, several curved or even S-shaped pieces, which

Hosted by

Google

NARANJO. 101

perhaps were used as nose-ornaments, a serrated lance and a serrated plate,
a piece in the shape of a cross and one composed of three leaves, a double
lance, single lances, etc.

We may assume that near many stelae as well as in the interior or on
the exterior of temples, in addition to incense-burners and sacrificial bowls,
there were placed certain death's-head masks or other figures of perishable
material tricked out with ornaments, feathers and locks of hair, which have
long since mouldered away leaving behind only those of indestructible
stone. For elsewhere, in the vicinity of stelae, objects of flint and
obsidian are found in addition to pottery sherds.

Stela 16. This stone is broken in two. It is 82 cm. wide and 38 cm.
thick ; its height was not calculated. The sculpture on the west side is com-
pletely effaced by the action of the elements. The back and both narrow
sides are plain.

Stela 17. This stone stands erect in the cement pavement. Its breadth
is 82 cm. ; thickness, 40 cm. Its height was not measured. The sculpture
on the west side was entirely destroyed by scaling off. The back and both
narrow sides are plain.

Stela 18. The length or height of the stone is 255 cm. ; breadth, 85
cm.; former thickness, 50 cm. This stela was split in two from top to
bottom, like Stela 11 of Tikal. But while in Tikal the severed portion was
still at hand, in the case of this Naranjo stela it had disappeared, leaving no
trace. It is therefore impossible to say whether there was a picture or an
inscription on the back.

The west side had fallen to the ground and on its very smooth, polished
surface 6 (?) vertical rows of little glyphs were once incised. Unfortunately
the hard, smooth surface seems to have almost entirely scaled off; only
here and there imperfect portions of glyphs remain, which testify that the
inscription upon this stela was of unusual delicacy and beauty.

Each narrow side formerly contained two vertical rows of eight glyphs
in bas-relief. The fracture passes exactly through the centre of the second
row, counting from the front of the stela. These glyphs are distinguishable,
but are not sufficiently well preserved to be worth photographing.

A mound of debris of vast dimensions, from which remnants of masonry
still protrude, occupies the entire south side of this site and extends to the
building claiming Stelae 10 and 11. The main faQade of this- building or
group of buildings evidently faced the north, on which side also the main
stairway must have been built. A high, massive foundation can be distin-
guished, perhaps with rooms thrown out from it, which, however, have now
vanished ; also a large first story, on the terrace above, the vaulted roof
{azotea) of its front rooms forming the access to the second receding story.
Remnants of masonry of both stories are still present. There is nothing to
prove that the second story may not have supported some sort of super-

Hosted by

Google

102 EXPLORATIONS TO GUATEMALA.

structure ; in which case this edifice, constructed on so large a scale, must
indeed have presented an imposing appearance.

At the base of the north side of the substructure no stelae were found,
but a small stela stands erect at the base of the east side. No sculpture
can be discerned on its much weather-worn east surface.

Near the east end of this building there is a very small heap of stones,
barely three meters high. We could not decide whether this had merely
been a small platform, or whether it was the remains of a small structure
with but one room, possibly a tomb. At all events it is closely related to
the personage pictured on the large stela, No. 19, found on its north side.

Stela 19 (Plate 34, Figs 1, 2). This large and beautiful stela lay on the
ground, and with our windlass was carefully placed on one of its narrow
sides. The length or height of the stone is 290 cm. ; breadth, 88 cm. ;
thickness, 24 cm. Both narrow sides of this stela are plain.

North side. From the base-line of the prostrate captive to the extreme
top of the sculpture the distance is 238 cm.; of this height 46 cm. belong to
the captive and 192 cm. to the priest.

The captive is kneeling on the ground with legs crossed and bending
the upper part of his body over a kind of frame. His profile permits his

racial type to be clearly distinguished.
^C louD His arms are bound upon his back. On
Afo \ his left thigh three glyphs are incised.
nr . j These are somewhat indistinct on

the photograph, and for this reason a
Fig. 20. — Glyphs upon Left Thigh of ^ . a.. ..^ 4^\.r^^

Captive, Stela 19. separate tracing was made of them

(Fig. 20).

The first glyph contains the numeral sign for 12 prefixed to a profile,
and this numeral sign is repeated as a prefix to a death's-head profile placed
below a sacrificial knife in the lowest glyph of the vertical column of five
appearing on the background on the priest's left.

The priest, standing on the back of the sacrificial victim, is pictured in
front view with his face turned to the right. His foot-gear is not very
elaborate. He wears garters with pendants, no skirt, only a girdle bordered
on the lower edge with shells, from which the flap, ornamented with sym-
bolic signs, hangs down in front. The priest wears a collar, also a breast-
plate suspended around the neck by a strap with a death's-head placed
horizontally in the oval, ribbed cuffs, ear-orpaments but no nose-ornament.
The helmet consists of a large, grotesque, animal mask with plumes drooping
at the back ; the top feathers are left to the imagination, since they are cut
off by the upper edge of the stone. The priest holds in his right hand,
hanging at his side, some sort of a pendant, while a round shield with a
fierce face rests on his left forearm. In the background are 8 + 5 = 13 + 1
+ 1 + 5 = 20 glyphs in all. The entire sculpture, from top to bottom, is

Hosted by

Google

NARANJO. 103

very well preserved, and also its delicate, white, stucco coating, but there
are no traces of color.

South side. When the stone fell, the south side came uppermost. Its
sculpture is, therefore, not so well preserved, but nevertheless it is distin-
guishable.

The distance from the lower line of the inscription to the upper line
(halPworn away) of the upper inscription is 200 cm. The lower inscription
contains two horizontal rows of 5 glyphs, 10 in all Upon this stands a stone
bench such as is usually found in these temple-palaces. On this bench the
priest is sitting with his legs crossed. He is undergoing voluntary torture,
with his arms crossed and bound upon his breast (?). In front of him stands
an assistant priest, who, with both hands, draws a cord through the pierced
and protruding tongue of the penitent. This cofd twists downward to the
vessel for sacrificial blood standing below on the base. Three glyphs, now
indistinct, were carved above each priest. The stucco on this side has
disappeared as a matter of course.

Frequently one piece of sculpture aids in understanding another. Thus,
we now comprehend what the person clad in a woman's skirt on Lintel 43
(under side) of Yaxchilan is offering to the priest with the standard on
which Ehecatl is enthroned. It is the vessel for sacrificial blood with the
cord for self-torture. Not many such scenes of voluntary torture have as yet
been found.^ The splendidly executed parallel representation on Lintel 24
(under side) of Yaxchilan is well known. Of this lintel, however, I only had
an opportunity of admiring the pieces hacked off from the back of the stone.

Few archaeologists know the two stelae of Huilotsintla, " place of doves,"
with representations of voluntary torture. Huilotsintla is a forgotten, ruined
city of Huaxtec (?) civilization in the district of Tuxpam (state of Vera Cruz)
not far from the right bank of the Rio de Tuxpam.

Some thirty years ago these two stelae were brought by an intelligent
Totonac to the neighboring hacienda of San Isidro belonging to the Basanez
family, where I discovered one of them thrown into the pigsty ! This led
me to make some not very complimentary remarks to the present owner of
this hacienda^ notwithstanding the hospitality which I was enjoying. I was
allowed to photograph this stela in the San Isidro pigsty at the time of my
short expedition to Teoayo and Papantla in the year 1903. The other stela,
which was said to contain a similar representation, had been removed to
Jalapa about a year before my arrival.

The penitent on the stela which remained in San Isidro wears a large
conch shell, Strombus gigaSy on his breast, and his elaborately tattooed legs
are entwined by two snakes. He is drawing a reed {carrizo) through his
protruding and pierced tongue. In front of him stands a warrior drawn on

1 See Zelia Nuttall, A Penitential Rite of the Ancient Mexicans. Peabody Museum Papers,
Vol. I, No. 7.

Hosted by

Google

104 EXPLORATIONS IN GUATEMALA.

a small scale with shield and javelins on his left arm. Above the warrior is
enthroned the grotesque face of a god with gaping jaws. A row of hiero-
glyphs finishes the stela at the top. This reUef is certainly of interest for
purposes of comparison with Maya sculptures.

To the east of the natural hill levelled-ofF and crowned by the edifice,
to the south side of which belong Stelae 12, 13, and 14, lies the ruin of a small
building, which was also erected on a massive foundation, with facade facing
the west. In front of its west side is the largest round altar of Naranjo,
which is fully two meters in diameter. Unfortunately this great stone is
completely shattered and weather-worn.

It seemed a matter of course that a stela of importance must belong to
so laro-e a round altar, but we sought for it in vain. Finally we concluded
that a°comparatively insignificant, weather-worn stone, lying upon the round
altar, must be all that was left of the sought-for stela.

To the east of the large longitudinal building with Stelae 15-18 on its
west side, another large plaza had been formed, which, by means of a filhng-
in of earth from 2 to 5 meters in depth, had been extended as far as the
main temple at the eastern end of the city.

On the north side of this plaza was the ruin of a building of medium
size, its former faQade facing the plaza, I e., the south. In front of the south
side of this mound of debris, we found a small stela broken m two, with its
sculptured side sunk in the black forest mould.

Stela 20 (Plate 35, Fig. 1). Greatest length or height of the stone, 230
cm.; breadth, 87 cm.; thickness, 32 cm. The narrow sides were without

^ ^"^ Sonthdde. From the base-line of the prostrate woman sacrifice to the
top of the stone is 185 cm. ; of this measurement only 15 cm. belong to the
victim The woman is lying flat on the floor and touches it with her face,
and her hair is coiled on the back of her head. Her arms are bound with a

triple cord. ^ • ^ j. •

The priest standing on the woman's back is represented m front view,
his face turned to the right. He wears shoes. His garters, probably hidden
by the scrolls of the ornamental flap, seem to have a medalhon face attached
in front. His tunic is of tiger-skin bordered with fringe ; the bottom is cut
to slant upward toward the centre. His girdle, bordered with shells, is
adorned with three large face-masks (that on the left is hidden by the cere-
monial bar) with a St. Andrew's cross between them. The broad and large
ornamental flap hangs down in front. He wears ribbed cufi-s, a collar
scrolled breast-plate and shoulder-pieces, round ear-discs, helmet with animal
mask with a bunch of feathers on the top and a feather crest at the back.
With both arms the priest holds obliquely across his body the ceremonial bar
adorned with the crisscross pattern. As always, there are jaws contaimng
the head of a god at each end. On the background are 6 + 5 glyphs m two

Hosted by

Google

NAEANJO. 105

vertical rows. Fortunately they are very well preserved, with the exception
of the lowest one of the row beginning with 8 Ahau.

North side. This side had two vertical rows, each containing eight large
glyphs, which unfortunately were completely destroyed by the action of
the rains.

It is important for all travellers to know that only a few steps north of
the building with Stela 20 lies the small aguada of Naranjo. Probably this
is a depression of the earth, artificially improved, which contains water
throughout the entire year. Whoever does not wish to pitch his camp by
the distant acropolis can remain in the vicinity of this water.

As we soon discovered that in Naranjo each monumental building had
its counterpart, we now explored the south side of the large plaza, opposite
the building with Stela 20, and there we found two temple ruins standing
one behind the other, but this time, deviating from the general rule, the
faQades had not faced the building with Stela 20 (the north), but the west.

On the west side of these temples, on the lowest terrace, stood two small
stelae with a very small round altar midway in front of them. Behind them
rose a second terrace with two larger stelae, and midway in front of these
was a high, round altar 1| m. in diameter. These four stelae and also the
two round altars are entirely plain.

The small front temple, now demolished, could formerly have contained
but a single room. Close behind this small temple rises a larger one, whose
stone facing has now all fallen off. It shows no traces of having once con-
tained a chamber, for it is a sohd construction, no doubt the sepulchre of a
personage of high rank. It is possible that a narrow tomb in the interior of
the mass of stones may yield interesting objects to some future explorer.

Ascending the low terrace, on the margin of which I found a round
altar without a stela, we reached the last enclosed area bordered by a large,
longitudinal building on the right and another on the left, with the once
imposing main temple with its terraces in the background.

The quite considerable mound of debris on the north side of the temple
plaza suggests a temple of oblong ground-plan with its faQade facing the
south. This was erected on the platform of a substructure which may have
had a stairway on the south side. On the lower terrace of the south side,
which is elevated some three meters above the temple plaza, formerly stood
three important stelae now lying on the ground. They are Nos. 21, 22,
and 23 in my enumeration. Below on the plaza, on the architectural middle
line passing through Stela 22, stands a weather-worn, round altar about 11 m.
in diameter.

Stela 21 (Plate 35, Fig. 2). The length or height of the stone is 280 cm. ;

breadth of the stone near the top 81 cm. and somewhat less near the bottom ;

thickness, measured at the convexity, 33 cm. Both narrow sides are plain.

South side. The sculpture occupies 223 cm. from the base-line of the

MEM. PEABODY MUSEUM IV. — 14.

Hosted by

Google

106 EXPLORATIONS IN GUATEMALA.

prostrate woman sacrij&ce to the top. Of this height 19 cm. belong to the
victim.

The fattened, female victim lies on the floor, turned partly on her right
side in such a manner that we have a full-face view. Her arms crossed on
her breast are bound four times with a rope, and her knees twice. The
closed eyes and the angry expression of the face show that this woman of
the masehualiin class (lower class) is not as submissive to her cruel fate as is
the woman pictured on Stela 14. Her abundant hair is tied up in a tuft.
Traces of delicately incised glyphs appear on her left thigh, but only the
prefixed sign for 9 is distinguishable.

A warrior chief or halachuinic {halats-winic, great man) is standing upon
the woman. He is represented in front view, his face turned to the right.
According to the modern point of view, it is difficult to conceive how so
great a warrior could find it consistent with his principles as a soldier to
stand on the back of a poor woman sacrifice. But we may assume that
among these people the warriors of the higher class were also of priestly
rank.

It should be noted here that, notwithstanding certain variations, the
warrior pictured on Stela 21 in very many respects recalls the one repre-
sented on Stela 11. For a better understanding the pictures should be
compared.

The warrior's foot-gear is of a tasteful, pleasing design. His tunic hangs
down on one side in a sharp point and is covered with a small design. It is
probably held to his waist by the girdle. The bottom of the ornamental
apron also displays a small design. The long feather garment, already seen
on Stela 11, with an oval opening at the neck through which the head is
passed, was probably thrown over the undergarment of thin material. The
feathers are arranged radially around the neck, and six horizontal rows of
feathers reach down to the knees (the back part is invisible). Above the
radiating feather cape lies the collar formed of three rows of beads, upon
which rests the oval breast-plate with nodules on the edge and an oval
opening in the centre. This is certainly a rare form of breast-plate.
His face is adorned with a nose-peg (round bead with two feathers) and
a line encircles the eye. He wears a round ear-ornament with pendants
and a curious chin-ornament curving forward. We do not know of what
material the latter was made, but it resembles the under jaw of an animal.
The helmet is similar to that of Stela 11. In front is the small face of
a god with the long, protruding snout. Among the other accessories are
a plume and crest of feathers. The feather crest displays three singular
objects of which there are seven on the feather garment (two are concealed
by the shield). They resemble in shape an inverted pot, ndk-curriy as
the Mayas say. While the four objects placed on the crest of Stela 11
distinctly represent death's-heads, the similar appendages of Stela 21 show

Hosted by

Google

NARANJO. 107

only little, fine circles interspersed with many dots. In his right hand,
which displays a beaded cuff on the wrist, the warrior holds a large lance
with feather pendant. His left hand grasps a large, round shield with a
fierce mask, which has a graduated strip hanging down from the mouth in
place of a tongue.

On the background are 5+9 + 3 glyphs in a vertical row, making 17
in all. I will only observe that the eighth glyph in the row of nine contains
the profile of the woman sacrifice with the same elongated ear and the little
rod stuck through the ear-lobe. In the glyph, however, the sign for 8 is
prefixed, and not the sign for 9 which is prefixed to the first glyph on her
thigh.

This entire relief was in a good state of preservation and displayed a
coating of dehcate white stucco, but no vestige of paint. It was very diffi-
cult to take a satisfactory photograph, because the surface of the stone is
strongly convexed and, although the background is depressed fully 4 cm.
around the figure and glyphs, the relief of the figure itself is of very slight
projection, only a few millimeters, 1 centimeter at the most. When the sun
fell most favorably on the bas-relief of the principal figure, the face of the
sacrifice, the lance and the inscription carved near the lance were thrown
into the very deepest shadow, owing to the convexity of the surface. When
these portions were well lighted, the light on the others was unfavorable,
because it was too strong. Therefore we adopted a middle course and the
beauty of the bas-relief of the principal figure was sacrificed to a certain
extent, in order to bring out the details of the glyphs, the lance, and the
woman's face.

North side. This has an inscription consisting of 4 vertical rows of
11 glyphs each, 44 in all. Unfortunately nearly all the glyphs are so ex-
tremely weather-worn, that I refrained from photographing this side.

Stela 22 (Plate 36, Figs. 1, 2, 3). The height or length of the stone is
nearly 4 meters. The piece broken off at the bottom is still sunk in the
floor of the terrace ; the portion hurled to the ground has a length (height)
of 312 cm. The breadth is 113 \ cm. ; thickness, 44 cm. The north side is
plain.

South side. The sculpture is 259 cm. in height from the bottom of
the scroll-work.

On the lower scroll-work lies the throne cushion, made in part of
tiger-skin, on which the beneficent god is seated in Asiatic fashion with
legs crossed. Naturally, in such a position his clothing is mostly hidden.
Nevertheless we recognize the ornamented girdle, the central mask of which
always suggests the East Asiatic racial type with its pronoimced round head
and obHque eyes. The mask on the right side is hidden by the ceremonial
bar, that on the left is distinguishable. The broad, ornamental flap, display-
ing the typical mask with goggle-eyes, hangs below the central mask.

Hosted by

Google

108 EXPLOKATIONS IN GUATEMALA.

The breast-cape consists of little square plates with a small incised ring
in the centre. His cuffs are ribbed. The ear-ornament is round. His
helmet displays the face, so frequently seen, of a god or animal with
snouted nose, with certain accessories rising above it, while a feather crest
issues from the ornamentation at the back. The front of the helmet de-
velops into a large double scroll. With both arms the god holds obliquely
in front of his body the ceremonial bar with symbolic ornamentation. The
jaws, on the observer's left, contain the head of a goddess with the hair tied
up in a tuft and drawn over to the front, while the opposite jaws, on the
observers' right, hold the fierce face of a god with goggle-eyes.

Below, on one of the scrolls of the throne-support, a nude man of the
people is sitting likewise in Asiatic fashion. To the merciful god gazing
down upon him, he extends his right hand in supplication to receive the
benefits which he asks for. The supplicant is represented from the right
side, but the god is in front view with his face turned to the right and
slightly inclined forward. There is a small bird on the scroll, where the
sole of the supplicant's left foot appears. On the background are 6 + 5

glyphs.

With regard to the '' god " (founder of religion, lawgiver, high priest)
depicted on this Stela 22 of Naranjo, seated in Turkish fashion, the question
naturally arises whether he can be explained by calling him Ketsalcoatl-
Cuculcan. This query applies equally to the parallel representations on
Stela 1 (east side) of distant Cankuen and on certain stelae of Piedras Negras.
At any rate the relief on Stela 22 presents an agreeable variation from the
other stelae of Naranjo. That it has reference to a very important person-
age follows from its position midway between the other two stelae, and from
the fact that to it belonged the round 'altar standing at the foot of the

terrace.

The narrow east side contains two vertical rows of 20 glyphs each.
The narrow west side likewise contains two vertical rows of 20 glyphs

each.

There are, therefore, 80 glyphs in all on both side-faces ; nearly all are
still quite well preserved, though they have come out rather small on the
photograph.

Stela 23 (Plate 37, Figs. 1, 2; Plate 38, Figs. 1-3). The length or
height of the stone is 340 cm. ; breadth, 108 cm. ; thickness, 32 cm. The
north side is plain.

South side. From the base-line of the prostrate captive to the topmost
edge of the stela the distance is 260 cm. ; only 12 cm. belong to the bas-
relief of the man lying flat on the ground.

Unfortunately the entire relief on the south side has suffered so severely
from the moisture of the earth that the main outlines alone are distinguish-
able, while all the finer details have vanished. In spite of its weather-worn

Hosted by

Google

NAEANJO. 109

condition I could discern traces of incised glyphs on the left thigh of the
sacrifice, who lies with his face flat on the ground.

The priest standing on the victim's back is represented in front view,
with his face turned to the right. Of his elaborate costume we can still
distinguish the high foot-gear, the garters, the short tunic, the elaborate
girdle with three large masks and their pendants (that on the left side
being hidden), the flap hanging down in front, the breast-cape, an ear-
ornament quite worn away, while the nose-ornament is still quite distinct,
and the helmet with large wild face and feather crest. In his uplifted right
hand the priest holds the little figure of a god, this time apparently facing
him. One of the little legs ends in a snake stretching forward. The small
head of the snake, with its protruding forked tongue, rests on the border of
the stela. The priest's left hand holds a dish containing a large head (?),
unless its weather-worn condition is misleading. On the background are
9+11 + 7 weather-worn glyphs.

The narrow west side contains 2 vertical rows of 19 glyphs each, and
at the very top a large initial glyph occupying the space of two ; there are
thus 39 glyphs in all. (See Plates 37, Fig. 2, and 38, Fig 1.)

The narrow east side contains 2 vertical rows of 22 glyphs each ; 44 in
all. (See Plate 38, Figs. 2, 3.)

The beautiful details of the 83 glyphs on these narrow sides, which are
tolerably well preserved in the main, compensate to some extent for the de-
struction of the sculptured front. This time each side-face was photographed
on two celluloid strips, twelve English inches long, which, of course, is favor-
able for the reproduction of the glyphs but demands a double outlay on the
part of the publisher.

Lying to the south and opposite the building with Stelae 21, 22, and 23
on its lower terrace, is an equally high, oblong mound of debris, which was
once a temple-palace with faQade and a stairway on its north side. At the
base of the north side of the mound, corresponding to the architectural
middle line, we found a round altar, burst apart by roots, which was li
meters in diameter, but no trace could be found of a corresponding stela.

In clearing away the debris which had fallen down behind the altar,
to our great delight we came upon a well preserved and interesting stela
to which the number 24 was given. The excavation was extended to the
right and left, but no other sculptured stone came to light.

Stela 24 (Plate 39, Figs. 1, 2, 3). This stone is 238 cm. high, or
long, 87 cm. broad at the centre, and 32 cm. thick. The south side is

plain.

North side. The measurement from the base-line of the prostrate
woman sacrifice to the top is 190 cm., 23 cm. belonging to the victim.

The nude, plump and fattened woman sacrifice lies on the ground
with legs drawn up to the body ; but her head, resting upon her right arm,

Hosted by

Google

110 EXPLOKATIONS IN GUATEMALA.

is turned so that her face is in front view, while her hair, gathered together
with a chain of beads, hangs down over her right arm to the ground. I
am sorry to say that her face has a coarsely sensual ex-
pression ; this woman likewise is from the lowest class.
^^\^(SiJ The pupil in the eyeball is indicated by a tiny circle. A
compound glyph (Fig. 21) is incised on the side of the

Fig. 21. -Glyph abdomen.

Victim, SteL 24^ ^ woman of high, perhaps priestly, rank is standing

on the fattened sacrifice. She is represented in front view
with her face turned to the right. She wears tasteful foot-gear. Her skirt
{enagna) is covered with trellis-work of cylindrical beads, with round beads at
the intersecting points; its bottom is bordered with fringe. Her girdle
consists of vertical strips with a lower border of round beads. At the middle
of her girdle there is a fierce tiger-mask with the tongue curiously per-
forated. Below the mask an ornamental pendant with a grotesque face and
a tassel hangs down to the back of the sacrificial victim. Probably the
girdle should also be considered as ornamented on the sides with masks, of
which only the frames and pendants are distinguishable.

The neck-ornament of the priestess has a large oblong stone bead
in the centre, and on her breast lies a kind of breast-plate with an oval and
short lateral scrolls at each end. She wears ribbed cuffs with a border
of beads. The ear-ornament, thrust obliquely through the shell of the ear
and resting on her cheek, has angular scrolls. The curious, tall head-dress
has a huge feather plume at the top which curves backward.

With both arms crossed at her waist the priestess holds a large plate
containing a curious scrolled object ; this is probably a ceremonial offering.

Along the left (observer's left) edge of the stela are 4 + 5 large, distinctly
preserved glyphs in vertical rows. Without my suggestion an Americanist
will recognize that the top glyph of the row of four begins with the day
sign 9 Lamat; but I would call attention to the fact that the first and
second glyphs of the row of five contain the profile face of the woman
sacrifice. The ear-ornament of the priestess, inserted obliquely, leaves no
doubt in this regard.

The narrow east side contains 2 vertical rows of 18 glyphs each, 36 in all.

The narrow west side contains 2 vertical rows of 18 glyphs each,
36 in all.

The two narrow sides, therefore, contain 72 well preserved glyphs
carved in fine detail. Since each narrow face — very well lighted, by the
-way — was photographed on a single celluloid strip, the glyphs naturally
came out rather small.

The limestone of which Stela 24 consists is of an extremely fine and
hard grain and for this reason, and also because it was buried deep down
in the ruins, all three sides are well preserved.

Hosted by

Google

NARANJO. Ill

The eastern conclusion of the temple square — one might say of this
whole section of the city — is formed by the magnificently planned, main
temple, a building that could not have been inferior in height and general
architectural effect to the great temples of Tikal. The first approach is
a projecting terrace, rising some three meters above the level area of the
square with the remarkable Stela 32 at its west side. Two meters higher
lies the second terrace with seven sculptured stelae — in a back row,
Stelae 25, 26, and 27, and in the front row. Stelae 28, 29, 30, and 31.
On the north side of this terrace, but receding, rises a heap of stones
(cuyito) corresponding to what was once a small temple (templete). Three
meters above the second terrace rises the third terrace, from which a
central stairway led high up to the platform, upon which the main temple
was reared. On examination I concluded that this temple must have had
an oblong ground-plan, perhaps with three rooms in front and several
compartments in the rear. Massive remnants of masonry are still standing
on this site, but a plan can no longer be traced with certainty. We may
assume that a stately roof-comb rose above the roofs of the vaulted
chambers of the temple. On the rear and sides the foundation rises in
great steps with plain, sloping walls, and it may be assumed that there
were also flights of steps on the sides (Fig. 15).

Viewed from the west, the main temple must in truth have presented
a magnificent appearance, — at its base the terraces adorned with stelae, and
the side temple on the observer's left ; the steep main stairway interrupting
the great terrace offsets in the centre ; high above all, on the platform, the
temple edifice with its entrances and bizarre frieze; all crowned by the
stately roof-comb with its ornamentation of figures and small window
perforations. Standing on the ruins of the demolished, vaulted chambers,
the observer has spread before him a scene of vast extent. His question-
ing gaze sweeps the distance across the limitless, evergreen sea of forests,
hoping to discover other temples and palaces. On the eastern horizon we
observed a low mountain chain, and a lofty, turret-like rock on one of its
crests particularly attracted our attention.

The scene is wholly changed when, after rainy days, the white mist
rises above these low-lying woods called hqfiales; then it seems as if one
were enthroned on a lonely rock in the midst of a surging sea.

Stela B5 (Plate 40, Fig. 1). This stone is broken into two pieces,
the lower portion being still imbedded in the ground. The height was
not measured. Its breadth is 68 cm.; thickness, 28 cm. The east side
is smooth.

West side. Measured from the base, not given on the photograph, to
the extreme top, the figure is 190 cm. high. The very low relief is that of
a man represented in front view, with his face turned to the right. This
person does not stand on a captive or other symbolical base. His feet and

Hosted by

Google

112 EXPLORATIONS IK GUATEMALA.

legs, which are on the lower fragment, are much defaced. His skirt of thin
material is held to his waist by a broad girdle, and the large framed mask
with pendants, which is attached to the centre of the girdle, is half covered
up by the ceremonial bar. The necklace consists of a double row of beads
and each wrist is adorned by a simple bead bracelet. The ear displays a
pear-shaped pendant attached to the elongated ear-lobe. The head cover-
ing consists of a skull-cap, with a broad frontlet ; a single feather rises from
the ornament on top, and there is a small, grotesque face with scrolls attached
to the frontlet.

With both hands the man holds in a slightly inclined position, L e.,
nearly vertical, a long, ceremonial bar, with a row of beads on one edge and
a crisscross design running across each end {xiuhmolpilli f) beyond which are
the conventionalized jaws. Here there are no faces of gods looking forth
from the jaws, but sacrificial knives are inserted in their place.

The north and south narrow side-faces each contain two vertical
rows of incised glyphs (not in relief) which are half distinguishable and
half effaced.

Stela 26. This stone was very thick and quite broad, but friable with
little power of resistance. For this reason it fell apart in large blocks and
the sculpture has disappeared. This is to be regretted, since it is very prob-
able that the sculpture on Stela 26 was more important than that on Stelae

25 and 27.

Stela 27. The stone of this stela is also of inferior quality. The entire
upper half has fallen off and the sculpture on this fragment is wholly effaced.
The low relief on the west side is much injured on the lower half, which is
strongly incHned forward. Its arrangement seems to have been similar to
that of Stela 25 ; both narrow sides may also have had incised glyphs.

Stela 28 (Plate 40, Fig. 2). This stone is broken into one principal
piece and two small ones, and is also broken off at the bottom. It was
impossible to measure its total height. It is about 125 cm. wide and 50 cm.
thick. The east side and the two narrow sides are smooth.

West side. The height of the relief from the scroll-base (which is only
11 cm. high) to the top is 234 cm. The sculpture has suffered much from
torrents of rain, yet in the main all is tolerably clear.

The figure of a priest, represented in front view with his face turned to
the left, is standing on the scroll-base. His foot-gear is delicately carved.
He wears a tunic of tiger-skin with fringed edge and certain accessories at-
tached obliquely to each hip, and a girdle with three masks having rectan-
gular frames and pendants. The broad flap extending down in front from
the girdle displays elaborate ornamentation interspersed with grotesque
faces. The breast-cape of fine-ribbed material is covered for the most part
by the large breast-plate. This is an oval with scrolls on the right and left.
The cuffs are of an unusual pattern, also the ear-ornament. He wears a

Hosted by

Google

NAEANJO. 113

nose-ornament with a feather. The helmet is high and has a large projec-
tion in front, a bunch of feathers at the top, and a feather crest at the back.
The priest probably holds his right hand on his back, for it is invisible. In
his uplifted left hand is the small idol (Ehecatl ?), whose little leg here too
ends in a snake.

On vacant spaces in the background are 5+5 + 3 + 6 glyphs ; notwith-
standing the action of the elements the main forms are distinguishable,
though the delicate lines and dots have, of course, disappeared.

Stela 29 (Plate 41, Figs. 1, 2). The stone is 323 cm. high, or long, 1
meter broad, and 33 cm. thick. The stone was thrown to the ground with
neither of its broad faces downward, but resting obliquely on its narrow
south face ; in this position it was half buried by the faUing debris. Both
narrow sides are plain.

West side. The sculpture is 245 cm. high from the base-line of the
prostrate male victim to the top. At the very bottom of the relief the
victim lies flat on his stomach with his arms bound seven times, his knees
also tied and his feet crossed. His profile is still distinguishable, notwith-
standing the action of the elements on this part of the stone.

A woman of high rank, perhaps a priestess, is standing on the victim's
back. She is represented in front view with her face turned to the right.
Her tasteful foot-gear has vertically striped anklets. Her skirt, probably of
cotton, reaches below the knees, but the trellis-work ornamentation, which
covers it, does not extend quite as far. On the front of her girdle is an
object resembling the half of a grotesque face with a long, tasselled scroll
hanging from its angular, perforated tongue. She wears a breast-plate and
cuffs. Her face, head, and head-dress are much weather-worn, but the bunch
of feathers drooping backward and the two feathers curving upward are well
preserved. With both arms the woman holds before her a sacrificial gift,
probably in a vessel, but the nature of it cannot be determined.

Along the left (observer's left) edge of the stela is a vertical row of 18
glyphs, joined at the top by a horizontal row of 3 glyphs. All these 21
glyphs are now worn away and worthless. Along the right edge is a verti-
cal row of 10 very well preserved glyphs, as this portion of the stone was
buried. (It may be mentioned in passing that the addition at the back of
the sixth glyph, which is in the shadow, consists of a " roll of paper with
transverse band and a style inserted.")

East side. We have here an inscription 223 cm. high (measured within
the edge) by 76 cm. wide at the top and 80 cm. wide at the bottom. It is
composed of 4 vertical rows of glyphs, each row containing 18 glyphs,
Le.y 72 in all. All are very well preserved.

Carefully brushed off and washed, the stone was wet again shortly
before being photographed, and the most favorable moment was seized when
the light of the sun struck it from the east. The photograph, developed in

MEM. PBABODT MUSEUM IV. — 15.

Hosted by

Google

114 EXPLORATIONS IN GUATEMALA.

the stillness of the night in my little cave, came out beautifully and shows
the finest details of these complicated glyphs.

Photography cannot work miracles, and unless certain rules are observed
in photographing bas-rehefs of this kind, which have been exposed to the
weather for hundreds of years, nothing but the most commonplace picture is
the result. Especially the golden rule of wetting the relief does not appear
to be observed by unscientific explorers; hence the hazy, unsatisfactory
pictures which are so commonly seen.

Stela SO (Plate 42, Figs. 1, 2). The length, or height, of the stone
measured from the lowest point of the narrowing bottom is 320 cm.;
breadth, 150 cm. ; thickness, 38 cm. Both narrow sides are smooth.

This stela of hard, fine-grained limestone, of the dead yellow color in
which artists delight, had fallen with its sculptured side to the ground, while
the inscribed side lay upward ; hence one side was as good as new, while the
other, though somewhat protected by foliage and leaf-mould, was effaced to
some extent, but was still worth photographing.

We8t side. From the base-line of the prostrate woman sacrifice to the
topmost corner of the stela, the distance is 238 cm. ; the victim, pressed
close to the ground, occupies but 12| cm.

The woman lies at full length on her stomach, with her face flat upon
the ground. Her long hair, ear-ornament, and curved breast are distin-
guishable. Both her arms and legs are bound and her right foot lies across
the calf of her left leg. This victim is not a fattened woman, but a slim,
rather youthful individual. Her left thigh displays traces of some three
incised glyphs and there is a large glyph, half visible, behind the bend of the
knee below the warrior's left foot.

Whether the personage represented in front view with his face turned
to the right is to be considered a warrior or a priest-king is, perhaps, imma-
terial, since among these people, as previously stated, great kings and
statesmen held also the rank of priests, and the reverse was also true. At
any rate the personage, proudly standing here in his imperator s mantle
with its shoulder-pieces, presents a kingly appearance. His foot-gear is
tasteful and is ornamented with four-petalled star-flowers, but it is not
excessively large. Under the short tunic of tiger-skin with fringed edge, he
apparently wears an undergarment of thin material cut to a point, with a
long flap hanging down in front. His very wide or high girdle has in front
a large mask in a square frame with three pendants hanging from the lower
horizontal strip. Below the girdle a second flap appears, broader but shorter
than the first one. It displays a very delicately incised design, which is
barely visible. The mantle, thrown picturesquely over the shoulders and
back and reaching almost to the floor, is of fleecy material, — cotton, perhaps,
or some kind of tree bast, such as is used to-day by the Lacantuns. The
round opening for putting the head through has a border which might also

Hosted by

Google

NAKANJO. 115

be regarded as a closely attached collar. On each shoulder is a fantastic
head with short double pendants. The form of the cuffs is unusual. To the
large but uncurved nose is attached an ornament consisting of a long, flat
strip with three beads at the top. The ear-ornament is round, bordered
with beads having pendants and a little projection resting on the cheek.
There is a mark around the eye proceeding from the top of the ear-ornament.
The helmet displays a large animal mask with curious objects attached to
the proboscis-like nose. A pretty little head looks down from below the
upper half of conventionalized jaws. A beautiful feather crest is attached
to the scroll-work at the back of the helmet, beginning at the top with a
double scroll and having a row of bead-like knobs running along its entire
length near the outer edge.

The high dignitary holds in his right hand a long staff, decorated at the
top, middle, and bottom by a design composed of three horizontal strips, with
ornamented knobs in the centre, binding the vertical strips which project
above and below. Traces of delicately incised miniature glyphs appear
along the staff, which have grown indistinct owing to the fineness of the
carving. His left hand, hanging at his side, grasps through its oval opening
a curious three-pronged object decorated with fine lines and dots. Whether
this was made of flint and was connected with the staff or lance-shaft could
only be decided if the same object should be found on other reliefs. As far
as I can remember, I believe this is the first time I have seen it.

On vacant spaces in the background are 4 -i- 6 + 6 large and well pre-
served glyphs in vertical rows.

East side. The inscription, measured from the inner line of the edge, is
186 cm. high and 92 cm. wide. There are 6 vertical rows, each containing
15 glyphs, making 90 glyphs in all. For the most part the glyphs may be
recognized fairly well, though all the delicate lines and dots have vanished.

Stela 31 (Plate 43). The present height or length of the stone is
278 cm. ; to this should be mentally added a fragment broken off at the
bottom. Its breadth, near the top, is 120 cm.; thickness, 31 cm. Both
narrow faces are plain.

The stone lay broken on the ground with its sculptured side turned
downward and the inscribed side outward. The sculpture is partially disin-
tegrated by the dampness of the earth, yet it is distinguishable in the main.
Unfortunately the inscription, containing many glyphs, is well-nigh erased.

West side. From the base-line of the scroll-work base to its top the
sculpture measures 243 cm. ; only 13 cm. of this belongs to the base.

The god's head in the centre of the scroll-work base has attached to one
side the familiar round ear-ornament, with small scrolls above and below it.
It displays also a proboscis-like nose. In general it appears to be the same
as that on the bases of Stelae 2 and 3. It would be of interest to know to
what god these heads with the proboscis-like nose, which occur so often in

Hosted by

Google

116 EXPLORATIONS IN GUATEMALA.

Naranjo on helmet, ceremonial bar, bases, etc., refer, — whether to Cuculcan,
Itsamna, or to some other god. For the present, we can only emphasize the
fact that these proboscis-like noses exhibit a great variety of shapes and
appendages.

For the fourth time the question arises whether the persons clad in
" skirts " are to be considered women of rank. At any rate all the figures
thus apparelled display other distinguishing signs in common.

The priestess, of high degree, as we beheve, is represented in front
view with her head turned to the right. Her foot-gear is of the same design
as that on Stela 29. The material of her skirt reaching below the knees
has a reticulated pattern, and the ornamental trellis-work, with the fringed
border covering it, does not reach quite to the bottom. Her girdle displays
the same half-mask as those on Stelae 24 and 29. Here the perforated
tongue has attached to it a second half-mask, from which the various orna-
ments of the girdle-tassel extend down to the feet. The upper garment
displays, in addition to a triple collar, trellis-work covering with a border
of fringe. The cuffs have stripes running around the wrist. The ear-
ornament is small. The helmet has a large grotesque face in front with a
curious object on the snout, and a beautiful feather crest at the back. With
both arms the priestess holds obliquely across her body the ceremonial bar.
The open jaws at the upper end hold the god's head with proboscis-like nose.
From this head extends a large, bifurcated scroll, one arm bending down-
ward, and the other upward. The little figure of a man seems to emerge
from the jaws at the lower end, with his head and arms lying close to the
edge of the stela. On the background are 7 + 4 + 7 glyphs.

East side. The inscription on the east side contains 8 vertical rows of
glyphs, each row containing 15, making 120 in all. The glyphs on the
larger fragment are almost completely erased. The few on the lower
fragment are preserved to some extent, but since the connection with the
upper glyphs is now missing, these have become worthless.

Stela 82 (Plate 44). The height or length of the stone is 270 cm. ;
greatest breadth, 123 cm. ; thickness, 35 cm. The east side and both nar-
row side-faces are plain.

The stone had fallen down from the edge of the projecting first terrace
to the plaza, with its sculptured side to the ground. Even before we turned
the stone on one of its narrow side-faces, we surmised that, owing to its
exceptional position, its relief must be something quite out of the common.
No round altar stood below in front of the stela, but in its place there was a
small heap of stones (as in the case of other stelae of Naranjo). We there-
fore concluded that a small platform of stone and mortar, which served as a
sacrificial altar, had been erected here.

West side. The sculpture is 192 cm. in height, measured from the bottom
line of the glyph-base to the topmost edge of the stela. The glyph-base

Hosted by

Google

NAKANJO.

117

is 45 cm. high from its base-line to the crocodile cornice. The throne itself
claims 30 cm. of height from the base-line of the crocodile to the upper
corner where the continuation of the scroll finds a support. 75 cm. should
therefore be calculated as the height of the base plus the throne proper.

The base, doubtless an imitation of some architectural original, presents
a surface divided into five horizontal bars, elaborately decorated and inter-
rupted by central panels containing incised
(not bas-relief) glyphs, the whole suggesting
a hieroglyphic stairway of five steps. Each
of these slightly convexed panels contains
3 incised glyphs, making 15 distributed in
the 5 fields. Although these glyphs are
visible on the photograph, in order to insure
a better understanding special tracings were
made of them, after they had been rubbed
over with black earth. (Fig. 22.) As for
the ornamented spaces on the right and left
of the ^^hieroglyphic stairway," I would dis-
tinguish them as consisting of three orna-
mental and two intermediate bars. Each
ornamental bar finishes at the outer end in
the projecting, fantastic face of a god (each
face has a round ear-ornament with an em-
bellishment above and below), while the
front portion contains two little fields with
one glyph each of the second manner of

writing, thus making 12 glyphs in all. Each Fig. 22. — Glyphs Incised upon Lower
., j-i.u T_*j c J.1 -in Portion of West Side of Stela 32.

mtermediate bar on each side of the middle

field consists of an oblong field containing a disk with a handle on top
and a pendant on each side. These pendants are ornamented with little per-
forations and are fringed at the bottom. The disks have a border of little
holes and cross-hatching in the inner round field.

The feathered crocodile lying horizontally upon this architectural base
is bound in five places. The word " crocodile " may be used, since the lakes
and rivers of Peten actually contain true crocodiles as well as the common
caimans.

Only the right side (observer's right) of the throne proper is preserved ;
the left is completely scaled off. It consists of two horizontal bars and a
small upper cornice. The little square field on the lower strip contains
a St. Andrew's cross, while the one on the upper bar displays at the top only
a design resembling half an egg. The upper bar ends on the right and left
in a mask, its pendant hanging down over the lowe.r strip.

Unfortunately the sculptured figure on the throne is completely scaled

Hosted by

Google

118 EXPLOKATIONS IN GUATEMALA.

oflf in the centre and toward the top. The representation can only be
conjectured from the surrounding scrolls. Only two subjects are possible :
either a deity was seated in Asiatic fashion on the throne with the cere-
monial bar on his lap, or there arose from the throne a symbolic, foliated
cross {un drbol cniciforme) after the manner of those at Palenque, the
horizontal beam finishing at either end in elaborated jaws containing the
head of a god, like a ceremonial bar.

At all events, below in the centre on the small cornice, among the
accessories of the main sculpture, there is the tiny figure of a man in a
half-reclining position, whose presence is attested only by the little right
foot lying in close proximity to the scroll supported by the cornice.

Of the ceremonial bar or transverse beam of the cross, the large scrolled
jaws on the observer's right alone are preserved. These hold the god with
the snouted face (Ehecatl?) stretching his arms out. Of the jaws on the
left, only the large scrolls are preserved.

Of the upper part of the representation all that can be said is, that here
too scrolls developed in all directions, in which probably nestled small
grotesque faces, dwarfs, and perhaps even animal forms. At the very top
are 2 horizontal rows of 16 glyphs each, 32 in all. The middle glyphs are
effaced. On the observer's left are 4 vertical rows of 4 glyphs each, 16 in
all. On the observer's right are 2 vertical rows of 4 glyphs each, exclusive
of 2 rows joining the 2 vertical rows of 9 each, making thus 26 glyphs.
There are, therefore, 74 glyphs on this side.

The stone from which Stela 32 was chiselled is of good, hard quality, but
while the softer kinds of limestone are inclined to absorb water, — in which
case they are eaten into by roots and burst asunder or quite crumbled into
fragments, — the firm, hard kinds show a worse tendency to scale off in con-
sequence of the changes of dry and wet, heat and cold, as if they had been
calcined by fire. This scaling without the action of fire has taken place here
in the sculpture of this stela. Nevertheless, its remains are very interesting.

The result of our thorough investigation of this ruined city is as follows :
32 stelae with more or less distinct representations sculptured upon them, 24
of which could be photographed, while 8 (Nos. 1, 4, 15, 16, 17, 18, 26, and
27) were so badly worn away that photographs of them would be worthless.

As may be seen from my plan (Fig. 14), that the principal edifices
which I have described, on both the south and north sides of the city were
surrounded by smaller structures, all of which were examined but yielded
nothing of note. We may naturally assume that around the architectural
centre clustered countless huts of perishable material, whose inhabitants
obtained their water in part from the large aguada and in part from the small
one, and cultivated their maize fields in the wide extent of surrounding coun-
try then cleared of forests. In the rear of the city, that is, east of the

Hosted by

Google

NARANJO. 119

main temple, there is only a quarry, and the ruins soon cease entirely. A
deep ravine with partly vertical walls comes next. On the opposite side of
the ravine rises a low mountain chain. In the rainy season a brook prob-
ably forms in the bottom of the ravine.

During a long expedition in various directions which I undertook with
my men, I myself descended into the ravine, following it to the north, and
then turning to the left, in order to return to the ruined city after describ-
ing a great curve. On this expedition we found a small neighboring village
with numerous little heaps of ruins. All these cwjos^ or the area in front of
them, were searched, but not a single sculpture came to light. This village
may be 1^ km. distant from the main temple, in a northeasterly direction.

A great drawback had to be overcome in the exploration of Naranjo.
Differing from Tikal, where game abounded, there was nothing edible to be
shot here, owing probably to the absence of trees with small fruit, which
attract the larger species of birds and also a few mammals. This lamentable
fact, indeed, so alarmed the bands of chicleros who intended to camp here,
that after a few days they had to give up their plan and build their huts
further away, conferring upon this thankless region the name ^' El Infierno " !
These grossly material people, when they are loafing in towns, have but one
idea, it is to drink, drink, drink ; but when they are again in the wilderness,
it is to eat, eat, eat.

Although, when I left Benque Viejo with my men, whenever some one
asked. Para donde sefue Teoberto Maler con su gmte? the invariable reply was,
Todos sefueron al Infierno^ this name seemed to me very inappropriate. It
is especially so since the region, which seemed like a hell to the hungry
chicleros of Benigno Silva, might indeed be considered a paradise by archaeol-
ogists. Inquiring of the older people in Benque Viejo what name this tract
bore before the chicleros visited it, I learned that in the middle of the nine-
teenth century a few Indian or half-African families had settled there near
the large aguada, and among other things had planted some orange trees
around their cabins. Hence this settlement was called '^El Naranjo" or
" El Naranjal." These people must be credited with doing no harm to the
ruins — in contrast to the band of vandals which destroyed Tikal. They
lived here quietly, cultivating maize, and hunting, and later they retired to
English soil. But the name Naranjo continued to be that of the district,
which, as a result of my discoveries, will soon be as well known to archae-
ologists as are Piedras Negras and Yaxchilan.

I therefore saw myself forced to solve the meat problem, in order to keep
together my discontented men. The substitute, whom I obtained in Benque
Viejo and paid fifty pesos in advance, against the advice of every one, his
reputation being that of an incorrigible rascal, in spite of everything proved
to be my most useful man during the exploration of Naranjo. Employing
the Tenosiqueros for the most part in setting up the stones with the jack-

Hosted by

Google

120 EXPLORATIONS IN GUATEMALA.

screw, in which work they were tolerably skilful, I sent the substitute,
equipped for the chase, to the forests surrounding the great aguada, that is,
to the west of the acropolis. He was a good shot and I provided him with
abundant ammunition. So almost daily he brought in either a splendid
kambul {Grax) or a coxolitli (Penelope) or for a change a small mammal such
as Sipitsotl {Chic, tsic, as it is called in Maya; Nasua) or some other animal.
We had, therefore, no lack of provisions. I myself was so busy with the
ruins that I never went as far as the large aguada, which is said to be
very extensive.

My life in the evening and at night in the cave, alone and undisturbed,
passed without special incident, while the mozos in their shelter huts near
the acropolis were also not badly off, continuing their carousals often after
midnight, singing and screeching and of course bewailing the misery which
they had to undergo. From time to time at night by the light of the red
lamp, the negatives, made between times with great care on celluloid plates,
were carefully developed, washed off in water that had to be brought to the
cave, and then hung up to dry. On such expeditions sure results can only
be obtained in this way. To develop the negatives after returning to civi-
lization would indeed simplify the luggage, but in so doing the chances are
equal that all may turn out beautifully or all may be lost.

My carefully swept little cave was free from vermin, which trouble me
generally more than the " tigers and snakes " which so greatly tax the imagi-
nation of the people of this country. When I had felled the obstructing
trees on the open side of the cave, sufficient air and light found their way into
it, and it was also cool and pleasant by day. At night, however, there was
often life stirring in the trees ; it was only the round-headed night apes or
akahmax, which at night run busily to and fro on the branches of tall trees,
and sleep in the daytime, for which reason they are falsely called sloths. As
a rule, tigers were heard roaring only in the distance, and only occasionally
uncomfortably near. Owls often perched in the neighboring trees, breaking
the silence of the night with ominous cries and answering again and again
when they were imitated ; while on days without rain a curious toad, which
also climbs trees, entreated the water gods for a refreshing draught, with
reproachful, plaintive murmurings.

As for snakes, two interesting species could be observed in the vicinity
of the cave. One was a coral-snake, two meters long and thick as a man's
arm, with gorgeous, cherry-colored and black rings. It moved along in S-
shaped, horizontal motions executed with great muscular power. Of the two
species of coral-snake known to me in Mexico, I have never seen so large a
specimen as this, and it is possible that it belonged to another species.
Furthermore I observed on a large ant-hill (inhabited by reddish-brown
arrieras) a dark-brown snake, one and a half meters long, without special
marking, which after brief deliberation slipped down through one of the

Hosted by

Google

NARANJO. 121

larger holes into the darkness below. Accordingly there seem to be certain
snakes which actually feed on ants (or their larvae)^ as the Indians, whom I
questioned regarding the matter, assured me. Snakes of this kind should
not be molested, since their usefulness is obvious, as almost no other animal
will eat these odious insects, to which fact must be attributed their amazing
increase.

On one occasion the habitual fear of tigers gave rise to a laughable in-
cident. One afternoon I heard one of the men screaming terribly, as if his
throat had been cut. Delicacy, however, forbade me to ask what the matter
was. Later in the evening, when the substitute brought my coffee to the
cave, he told me that one of the Tenosique heroes imagined he saw a tiger
leaping out at him. Whereupon he threw away his gun, and, shrieking for
help, climbed a tree as fast as possible. When the others hastened to his
aid, no trace of a tiger could be found, and they therefore concluded it had
been a young deer springing up whose spotted skin had struck the man with
such terror !

After photographing Stela 32, it was my opinion, as well as that of my
men, that it would be impossible to discover further sculptured stones. We
therefore decided to return to Benque Viejo, and two men were sent to in-
duce the muleteer to come for us with his pack-animals.

At last the moment had come for bidding farewell forever to my little
cave, in which I had well-nigh begun to feel at home.

It must be acknowledged that the reliefs and numerous inscriptions
which were found in Naranjo belong to the most interesting known remains
of Maya civilization, and are of a kind to excite manifold speculations, even
of a religio-philosophical nature. The superb figures of warriors and priests
indicate a race of men of tall, slender stature, and oval face with large aqui-
line nose. They belonged, no doubt, to the ruling class of nobles, and were
perhaps of Toltec origin. Men of their type are still found in the peninsula
of Yucatan, who are designated by the name indios nobles. The figures of
women, occurring so frequently, prove that the feminine element likewise
had a certain importance and was not excluded from attaining priestly
rank.

At the same time, the victims doomed to sacrifice usually appear to be
people of a thickset frame, with pronounced round heads, round eyes, small
mouth, and snub-nose, belonging to the common people of the lower class
{masehualtin), either of Maya origin or remnants of an inferior race which
was absorbed by the Mayas.

It was very striking to find how many Maya-speaking women, whom we
saw in Benque Viejo and Xocotes, corresponded exactly to the type of the
fattened woman sacrifices of Naranjo, a resemblance which struck even my
mozos, who exclaimed whenever they saw one of these women, Mira : esia es
una de las viciimas ! . . . Que huena estd para comerla ! Alas ! there can be

MEM. PBABODY MUSEUM IV. — 16.

Hosted by

Google

122 EXPLORATIONS IN GUATEMALA.

no doubt that the religious practices of these people, organized into a hier-
archy, had their dark side, and that after the bloody ceremony the human
sacrifices were carefully cooked and then disappeared down the throats of
the guests at the banquet.

Of course no one will now shed tears over the wretched sacrifices whose
beating hearts, more than a thousand years ago, were torn from their breasts
cut open with a sharp flint knife by the cruel hand of a priest and were
offered up to the sun-god ; neither could a wreath of flowers nor any expres-
sion of love be consecrated to the memory of people who have found a grave
in the stomachs of their fellowmen. But the memory of such bloody events
is indelibly impressed upon the consciousness of mankind, and to-day when
men, looking back in surprise, are asking how came the nations to have such
strange and sanguinary religions, the stone witnesses of Naranjo awaken
general interest. Nor should special blame be bestowed upon the Mayas,
for there is no doubt that through countless thousands of years, in the reU-
gious centres of all nations, in Asia (including Europe) and North Africa,
scenes have been enacted similar to those performed on the terraces of the
pyramid-temples of the Mayas and Toltecs. In other words, all mankind
has been driven along the same road, has had to ascend and descend the
same stairway according to circumstances. What universal plan, what secret
springs of power, or what mysterious spirit underlies this whole development ?
That is the point which still eludes our comprehension.

Lodged once more in our little house in Benque Viejo, I was convinced
of the impossibility of undertaking any more work on a large scale with my
lazy Tenosiqueros, whose dissatisfaction was of long standing. Furthermore,
attention had to be given to placing in safety the photographs, etc., which it
had cost so much to acquire, and which I wished to place beyond the risk of
loss. They had been stored temporarily at Merida. The most impatient of
the two Tenosiqueros was accordingly paid off and discharged. The one who
remained wished to be paid off in Tenosique. He was occasionally of use, but
he was such a wretched character that it would have been no loss if he too
had gone away. The substitute also received his final payment and we
parted on the best of terms, he promising to return if I should continue ray
labors.

Etiquette seemed to demand that I should pay my respects in person
to the Prefect (District Commissioner, as the title runs here), Mr. Robert
Holmes Franklin, who resided in Cayo de San Ignacio and to whom I had
long ago sent my compliments. I therefore went for a few days to El Cayo,
where I was pleasantly lodged in the upper story of the prefecture. (End
of April, 1905.)

The chief port of the district, El Cayo, is only a little village pictur-
esquely situated on the left bank of a tributary on the right side of the

Hosted by

Google

NAEANJO.

123

Mopan, close to the junction of the two rivers. The prefecture and Mr.
Franklin's dwelling-house stand on a gentle elevation near the river, the
forest having made way to green lawns. Mr. Franklin, who was born and
bred in England, is a very agreeable and cultured man, and we usually
spent the evening with other guests at his hospitable house in animated con-
versation. I also had an opportunity of looking over the English news-
papers, which interested me on account of the Russo-Japanese war then
being waged in distant Asia. Furthermore Mr. Franklin gave me much
information regarding interesting ruins in the territory of British Honduras,
which await scientific investigation. I also took advantage of the opportun-
ity to discuss with Mr. Franklin the fate of the important find of superb
old Maya pottery made some eight years before at Yaloch.

The small settlement of Yaloch ( Yalots) lies north-northwest of Benque
Viejo, at some distance from the great lake of the same name, situated
therefore in the Department of Peten. Y-al-och means, with the young och;
al, son, young one, while och (ots) is the Maya name for the small mammal,
which is called tlaciiatsin in Aztec, and which naturalists designate by the
name Didelphys.

Once when the dog of the sargento segundo of Yaloch, Guillermo Tut,
was pursuing a tepeitscuintli in a milpa, the little creature disappeared in a
hole in the ground, which Tut investigated in the hope of bagging the game.
It turned out that the hole was a chidtim (tsidiun) or reservoir for rain-water,
the opening of which was closed with a circular stone. Shoving the stone
to one side. Tut found hidden in this chultun a number of very beautiful pot-
tery vessels differing in kind and shape, some of which were adorned with
hieroglyphs and curious designs. Thomas Tappin, an intelligent man of the
middle class, succeeded in obtaining the whole collection for a few dollars
from Guillermo Tut, thus happily preventing their loss and destruction.
Tappin then transferred these interesting vessels to Dr. Gant, who, un-
derstanding their importance, sent them to England. The collection is now
said to have been acquired by the British Museum. At the time of this dis-
covery the Prefect of the Cayo district was not Mr. Franklin, but Mr. Davis.

Tappin, who had a fancy for making small excavations in the ruins of
this country, was lucky on other occasions. He once found a small number
of very finely worked obsidian articles, many of which represented certain
little animals. He also transferred this small, but valuable, collection to
Dr. Gant.

In 1899, in a cave about two leagues inland from Benque Viejo, Tappin
also discovered in a niche in a rock, closed up with stones, a number of pot-
tery vessels, mostly unadorned, as I surmise, but of excellent workmanship.
Among these were several large pieces, and all were well preserved. On my
arrival at Benque Viejo, I inquired whether some of the pottery found by
Tappin in this cave was not in the possession of the villagers. But as these

Hosted by

Google

124 EXPLOEATIONS IN GUATEMALA.

io^norant people take no interest at all in such things, they had not kept a
sin«-le vessel. I believe most of them were taken to Belice. In this cave,
which may be called la cueva de Tappin^ there are still numerous earthen
vessels, which have been stored there by the maize planters working in
that region, and not far from it is a second cave, which, I think, was not ex-
plored by Tappin.

The Secretario del Majistrado, as they say in Spanish, or the Clerk to
the District Commissioner, Lionel McGregor Arthur by name, an efficient
and trustworthy man, was of pure African descent, and therefore perfectly
black. He was an agreeable, well-bred man, and occasionally an hour was
spent with him in chatting over the conditions of the country.

Since the year 1888 the Frenchman, F. I. S. Blancaneaux, who was
born in Normandy but educated in Paris, has lived in El Cayo, at present
as the head of the local office of The Guatemalan and Mexican Mahogany
Export Co. This gentleman, who is known to naturalists far and wide as a
collector, came to British Honduras in the year 1878 and has travelled over
nearly all of Central America, making collections of plants, insects, birds and
also of small mammals. Most of these collections have been sent to London.
I naturally hastened to pay my respects to this accomplished naturahst, so
well versed in the natural history of Central America. Of course, Mr.
Blancaneaux does not now occupy himself very much with making collec-
tions, but he was good enough to show me his large collection of butterflies,
in which I was especially interested, since in my expeditions I also inciden-
tally collect tropical butterflies. For the most part I found in Mr. Blancan-
eaux s collection old, familiar friends from Yucatan, Tabasco, and Chiapas,
but there were also a few rare specimens which I had never seen before.

Mr. Blancaneaux had paid no special attention to ruins, but in his
travels he had found also in this respect much that was interesting. Thus
he gave me valuable information concerning the ruins on the Mopan above
Benque Viejo, which are still unexplored.

I did not forget to ask Mr. Blancaneaux whether in his travels in
Yucatan, Honduras, Guatemala, etc., he had ever found an ancient, Indian
hieroglyphic manuscript. I myself have not been fortunate enough to find
one, since these documents have either been intentionally destroyed or
ruined by dampness and insects in the course of centuries.

With regard to this interesting matter, Mr. Blancaneaux told me, that
in 1881 a Mr. Chassereau obtained from the Mayas of Xkanha, un mapa
antiguo de Yucatan, executed on material made of agave fibre or bark, half
a meter square. Furthermore a Mr. Godoy, residing in Valladolid, had
likewise discovered in Holbox a mapa antiguo executed on indeterminable
material, one millimeter in thickness and treating of the eastern coast of
Yucatan (?). Both manuscripts, which Blancaneaux purchased, had been
added to a collection of natural history specimens and sent in 1882 from

Hosted by

Google

NARANJO. 125

Cozumel to the British Museum. Later this Museum transferred all Blan-
caneaux's collections to the Kensington Museum. Therefore both manuscripts
must still be there, buried among butterflies, beetles, and birds, if they have
not been long since destroyed. I told Mr. Blancaneaux plainly that mapas
antiguos, especially those belonging to Maya civilization, should never be
placed in the hands of people who knew nothing about them. Such
documents should be given only to specialists, who were in a position to
decide whether they were of importance or not. Blancaneaux recalled
distinctly that he had sewed a slip containing his name on a corner of each
map and had rolled the two together over a single, round stick. If the
roll was not thrown away, it must still be among Blancaneaux's collections
in the Kensington Museum. Perhaps some Americanist residing in London
will inquire some day for this roll. Of course no one can say whether
these two documents are of any value until they have been examined by
a competent Americanist.

When I had finished my visit at El Cayo, which had been the occasion
of interesting discussions, we returned to Peten-Itza.

Since by a short cut through the wilderness I had reached Lake Yaxha
from Tikal, and not from the eastern end of the lake of Peten-Itza, I cannot
give a continuous description of the route from the great lake of Peten-Itza
to El Cayo.

I will therefore give in reverse order a very brief description of the
distance to be traversed from El Cayo to Peten-Itza, which may be of use
to future travellers.

Coming from Belice, travellers with their baggage can use a very wide
cayuco {pitpan) on the Mopan river as far as Cayo de San Ignacio. There
is also an overland route for pack animals, which, however, cannot be
recommended during the rainy season. In going from El Cayo to Benque
Viejo — a distance of 3 to 4 leagues — it is absolutely necessary to take
the overland route. Benque Viejo is on the right bank of the Mopan and
the ruined city is on the left. At Benque Viejo the Mopan is crossed
and the traveller soon comes to a little frontier village. This is Plancha
de Piedra, and as it is the first settlement belonging to the Department
of Peten, there is a customhouse officer stationed here, but he gives the
traveller very little trouble. Then the road runs, in the main, through
low-lying forests, bajiales^ and is so frightfully bad in the rainy season that
men and animals have difficulty in making their way. In the rainy season,
therefore, fully four days are required (in the dry season something less)
to reach the junction of Lake Sacnab and Lake Yaxha, where stand the
now abandoned huts. From here the great, ruined city of Yaxha, on the
northern shore of the lake of the same name, can be reached and the sacred
island of T6poxt^, near the western end of the lake, can be visited.

Whoever wishes to do so can start from the viviendas in a cayuco,

Hosted by

Google

126 EXPLOEATIONS IN GUATEMALA.

paddle the entire length of Lake Yaxh^, and, passing the group of six
islands, turn into the elongated, narrow, western arm as far as Paso
de Ixtinta, there to land and unload his baggage. In any case, the pack-
animals must make their way through by land, keeping near the southern
shore. From Paso de Ixtinta to the Aguada del Tigre, from where,
according to my calculation, Las Ruinas del Tigre must be sought in a
southwesterly(?) direction, the distance is 4 leagues or 4 hours' journey and
2 additional leagues to San Clemente, the regular stopping-place. In
some places the road is hilly, and in others it runs through lowlands
{bajiales). In San Clemente an open shelter hut, un galeron, offers a night's
lodging. From San Clemente to Macanche the road runs for fully four
leagues through hilly tracts ; it is uphill and downhill all the way. But
at least the traveller has firm ground under his feet and does not sink in
the black earth as he does in the dreadful bajiales. Between San Clemente
and Lake Macanche four small mountain lakes are passed — three on the
right of the path and one on the left. These lakes are called hulek. Hiilek
is'^the Maya name for calm, still sheets of water, and it is therefore applied
to small mountain lakes. All these four huleks in their superb setting of
mountain and vegetation are extremely picturesque and better adapted
for photographing than the large lakes of this country. It is probable
that other huleks he hidden in this region, which are not visible from the

path.

Not far from the first hulek (in coming from San Clemente) rises the
lofty mountain-peak, which is called el cerro del hulek from the lake at its
foot. As the highest peak of the mountain chain, it is seen in an easterly
direction from the Lake of Peten-Itza. Not far from these huleks there is
said also to be an interesting cave, where, until a few years ago, a free Maya
lived with his family. Between the middle hulek on the right and the very
small one on the left, the traveller ascends to a plateau upon which lie the
ruins of a small city. Indeed, the road leads over a mound of debris inter-
secting the plateau. A second mound of the same size faces the first, while
a series of smaller mounds continues along the road on the right. Beyond
this ruined place, far below, on the left of the road, lies Lake Macanche,
four kilometers long. Near the east end of this lake lies a beautiful wooded
island in silent solitude. Then the road leads along the northern shore of
the lake to the west end where lie the huts of Macanche, which are very
few in number.

Macanche {Macanfse) means " place of the leaf-hut." By macan the
Indians mean a leaf-hut erected on occasions of festivities or merely for
cooking and washing, — a temporary shelter, — with a roof of leaves laid
horizontally, una enramada, as it is called in Spanish. Che (tse) refers to the
posts of these huts.

Macanchg contains scarcely a dozen huts. Most of the people have

Hosted by

Google

NARANJO. 127

emigrated to British Honduras. The present inhabitants had also moved
away, but induced by strong remonstrances and promises of every favor
possible on the part of the Peten government, they returned to their home
so beautifully situated, where lavish nature offers the inhabitants every
blessing, — if they are not otherwise harassed. Here, too, travellers find
lodging in an open galeron near the huts of the little hamlet.

From Macanche to the east end of the great Lake of Peten-Itza the
distance is barely three leagues and the oblong Lake of Sacpeten (Lake of the
White Island) lies hidden in the forest on the right.

A short distance from the Lake of Peten-Itza, the traveller may turn
either to the right to the huts of Remate or to the left to the halting-place
of Ixluk {IS'luk, clay), where an open hut again affords shelter from rain and
sun. He turns to whichever place he thinks can furnish him with a cayuco ;
and, in either case, a short distance from Ixluk, the pack-animals must
turn aside to the left in order by a wide detour to reach the halting-place on
the peninsula, exactly opposite the island city, where the luggage can be
unloaded. He who decides on Remate paddles along the northern shore,
making short cuts where possible from one point of land to the other.
He who decides on Ixliik must paddle along the southern shore, likewise
cutting off distances where it is possible. On both routes every precaution
should be taken. When the wind is too strong it is better to wait until the
danger is past. Even with fast rowing and short intervals of rest, fully
twelve hours are needed to reach the desired goal, — the island city.

The voyage is especially romantic and beautiful by moonlight or by soft
starlight in the stillness and coolness of the night. While the weather-
hardened, taciturn Indians of San Jos^ or San Andres bend to their paddles
and the cool water ripples and the stars in the dark firmament twinkle full
of mystery, an indescribable feeling of melancholy involuntarily comes over
one while pondering on the often hard and thankless life of these repre-
sentatives of a once great race now so rapidly disappearing.

Hosted by

Google

/

Hosted by

Google

Memoirs Peabody Musetm. Vol. 1\'.

Plate 14.

TopoxTE ; AIain Temple.

HELIOTYPE CO., BOSTON.

Hosted by

Google

Hosted by

Google

MOiRS Peabody Museum. Vol. \\.

Plate 15

I, VAxHA : Stela i, West Side.

2, YAxha: Stela 2, West Side.

hFLIOTYPE CO., BOSTON.

Hosted by

Google

Hosted by

Google

MoiKs Pi:aiu)1)\ MrsKiM. \'c)L. I\'.

Plati: 1 6.

I. ^'A\IIA: Si ij.A 1. W'ksi Sidk.

^'A\HA : SlKLA 5, WksT SlDK.

HE! lOTYPE CO., BOSTON

Hosted by

Google

Hosted by

Google

Memoirs Fkahody Miseim. \'ol. I\'

Plate 17.

^-^^ri. >■ ■

f r' "U

1 L

g^j^f'

P '■ 1

g f^ipH{

Ib y ji^ /^^^ w-

afeli"^' ,^.-

^^liMSS^Mj ^

b^h #»??.! %e«P'

^^Bl^3

f-'''?K

■p rTKJ'^u*

^^r'''^-'-''- ^

^ b^/^r^^*'i^** .'

• '^''>fr^-r J|.

' <^ M^^^ " ^

.^H Br/. .

r^iir ^^' .i^s^srr v^ v i

■^p^^gllPti^^H

^H^lH^'^I^^Srv^^^pt^^l^^'^^^^l

^^^^^^E«s hI^^^^B ^^^Bflr^z^SI -^ s^^T^B'' ^ --''^^^B • .^fi^R^^^^^^^^H

r k-fPVif

7 5.<r;« iri ^ ,

r '^-^/^^Sl ''*"'^5^^

K^E^'

':t m^

&«^''i^J^^-'^ ./d^

^^ »^'' ai^X'W ^ -^1^ ^"^

^^ * JW|' ''^' ' T^kfs!^ ^ ' WT *^'

^€M/\<^' i vS:\ Vf^J^^^^^'

ffMJT 1^ IV-

Jh- ^■""

ijAf^^^'

t^Mmgi

^S^^^^jJ^ ^^\ . f,'

' VAvnfif i -^ i-

^^Kf^jt'^^f^^'

1^^^ ^', • ,,0^'

I, Yaxha : Stei.a 6, North Side.

Yaxha: Stkla 6, East Side.

Hosted by

Google

HELIOTYPE CO., BOSTON.

Hosted by

Google

IRS P^.\lu)n^ Miskim. N'oi.. I\',

I'LATF. uS.

1 . ^ AMI \ : S TKI.A lO-

r>KN(^i:K Xiirjo : Al lAR.

HELIOTYF'F CO., BOSTON.

Hosted by

Google

Hosted by

Google

Memoirs Pkaijody MrsEiM. Vol. W .

Plate 19.

Ben(^'e ViEjo : Stela.

HELIOTYPE CO., BOSTON

Hosted by

Google

Hosted by

Google

Memoirs Pkaiu)1)v Ml'skim. Vol. IV

Plate 20.

I, Naranjo : Stela 2, South Side.

Naranjo : Stela 3, Soi rii Side.

Hosted by

Google

HELIOTYPE CO., BOSTON.

Hosted by

Google

Mkmoiks Pkahodv Ml sKi\M. Vol. I\',

Plai E 21.

I, Nakanju : S'lELA 5, North Sidk.

2. Naranjo : Stela 6. Soi rii Side.

HELIOTYPE CO., BOSTON.

Hosted by

Google

Hosted by

Google

Memoirs Peahody Museim. \'ol. I\',

Plate 22.

I, Naranjo: Stela 7, South Side.

Naranjo : Stela 9, West Side.

Hosted by

HELIOTYPE CO., BOSTON.

Google

Hosted by

Google

:moirs Pkahody Miskum. \'ol. I\'.

Plate 2

I, Naranjo: Stela 8, North Side.

2, Naranjo: Stela 8, South Side.

HELIOTYPE CO., BOSTON.

Hosted by

Google

Hosted by

Google

KMOIRS PKAB()1)^ MrSEl'M. \'oL. I \' .

f

Plate 24

2, InSC KIl'TION 1 1.

I. siM'-^ II \\i> HI.

3, Inscription 12.

Nakanjo: Mom.mknial Stairwan.

HELIOTYPE CO., BOSTON.

Hosted by

Google

r

Hosted by

Google

MoiKs Peabodv Mlsei'm. \ ol. I\

Pi. A IK

I. Inscription i.

2. In SCRIPT ION 2.

3, InscUN'I lOiN 3.

XaRAN]() : MONI'MKN lAL STAIRWAY.

4, Inscrii»tion 4.

HFLIOTYPF CO.. BOSTON

Hosted by

Google

Hosted by

Google

RS PeABODY Ml'SEVM. XoL. W .

Plate 26.

Xaraxjo: MoNi menial Stairway, Insckiptton

HELIQT YPE CO.. DOSTtJN.

Hosted by

Google

Hosted by

Google

SMoiRS Peabody MrsEUM. Vox.. W .

Plate 27

Naranjo: MoNrMENiAK Stairway, Inscription T).

HELIOTYPE CO.. BOSTON.

Hosted by

Google

Hosted by

Google

[kmoirs Peahodv Ml seum. \'ol. 1\',

Plate :

I. Inscription 7.

2. 1"kA(7.mkm ok Inscrtpiiox S.

3, Inscripiion 9.

Xakanjo: Mommental Stairway,

4, Inscription }o.

HFIIOTYPE CO., BOSTON.

Hosted by

Google

Hosted by

Google

EMoiRs Peabody Ml seum. \'ol. W .

Plate 2(

Xaranjo: Fkaoment of [jntkl.

HELIOTYPE CO., BOSTON.

Hosted by

Google

Hosted by

Google

Memoirs Pkaiu)1)y Miski'm. Vol. W .

Platk .30.

I, Naranjo : Stkla 10, North Side.

2, Naranjo: Stela ii, North Side.

Hosted by

HELIOTYPE CO., BOSTON.

Google

Hosted by

Google

Memoirs pKAbonv Mi'setm. Vol. 1\'.

Plate 31.

1, Naranjo : Stela 12, North Side

2, Naranjo: Stela 12, South Side.

Hosted by

Google

HELIOTYPE CO., BOSTON

Hosted by

Google

Memoirs Pkahooy Ml^skim. Wn.. l\\

I^LATE 32

I, Naranjo : Stela 13, North Side.

2, Xaranjo : Stela 13. South Side.

Hosted by

Google

HELIOTYPE CO., BOSTON

Hosted by

Google

Memoirs Peauody Muselm. Vol. 1\'.

Plate 33.

i;^^ :-^..^%^s> V

*r ''(T/'*li^''Vj^^^'^*^ '-'J wr-^i'^ A

yl ■hL^J^'^^W'-'w^'iL V *jfe'l'ii^i^ «a

'I ' 'fv "ml" ViJi'^-," \ f 'ir^^-T^ M

'1 '^Imk-'IKs. ^■/'-' '^ 1

''1 ''KJt 'ite A/'^'^i'^' ''^ "J a

1 N ''^Tm' 'TB^'*^T*3r^~-'Oi- '^'« ■

^^^^^H^Hia^lL t^^^Ri S^^^mf^^'^F^K^'/SBS^SSK^' B ^^^H

^Ml»i ^IBkilmS^^^^i.H

^^^BWW^BWIiaKif'i^ JR^^iiL^v ■>«BB'lBrn!!![v. B'^^H

^^^^Ht^^^P' ^Hv«MHf«^K^IuL^^M WM' VIdi V^^k. 'i^B^^^H

HBsKwMifi^^^l

^^H[^Dw|r^W^BB

^^H^Sk^S ' 'vHffiislil^^B^^^^^ ^H

H»PnS^P£^SS^^K^

^1 ^^ ^^^S^^'K^^^Si^ « 1

m" ^t^ ^ ''^^raWlS^B i^*^ //^ (M

' *-^lLi*i^ ^ ik "i^y'^ii. ^liaL -_ ^---*^' Ji-ii'S^^ A ■' 1 JH

^' ^^'fclvlff^^fi^^Ql^W 1

•'^^,- < /I ii ¥ 1 ^s^i^'iar ,>,#.^ 1

^^^^^^^^^^^^MWKi \ 'WM yy-yi- 7^ tI[ wt •St^p* BM^^^^P^^^jMr^^^

^^^^BB^^H^^^^ttfliTPj^jM5s^fc^^Pi*Ti^<iB ^S^^i^^^L

J I r

pB

*3 l^i\'

k ■■•"^-■'i

' r ^^S8I ' v^ trl*^

X'Ka^^-'^

1 i - -I

i ■ '"! ^' ^^S ?♦ «fl •■^kf'

i}J-h^^

1 l^'j ^

^mOI^ ■HiiMll^^

iS^Si^Wl

1 %1 ^

-i'HJsia a ■ " ■ 1 i^^ ^"^ ■F-'is^ "t " ' '1^ v-j

') ''f V''d ^^^ •f.^MV^i '" t'al^ "/J 1^^

^■■EI^SP BgiBJiiigaBrmfcjsiRliMBI^ Mi^

^ '"^^ 3 |f^y;\i|/v T'-j. ii-'^Kk. Vw^V: 'V clK^iiga

^[■ii.M # "! v-JxJjI \ ' 1 ■mJjv': ytm-' ■ 'N*-"^**?! ^ V w'aBS

'i^ ♦ kT^ ' '^ I^iSy ¥i ^ , ^ "1 i *^ ^ ■ ■• -fl w *••■ XN'- W i * V ?.^ .1 CM

. J X^^ Nr SI™ -^'^^*^' <-•■«- 1^ -'''^^a^<i '5ilaB

^\ ir.^ 4

w^m. '^ 1

^wffi« V

^ •%i^^ ''> '• ■■'J '-'-^ -M^' ' ^"^ "^^ i a

] ^:m-s

^5x1 '^^l\S '^^^■^' ^i

k -■••'^"^•^"^

'^L*'«':'M'\-^' ,''*"^fc<k'~>>: sia

•^•f^<vv^^J|^^

'■<"f^^^ ?

HSi^^fi^fl

^^^^^^^^^PI^Hi

^■'<.v'J?5^''^^'|->J

^h \ ^^^^^')-- .^ " "^ "^ . ^, S"'"^' - ^ -^f

y^^Ml^t'^-^ >;-: ■if

Naranjo: Stela 14, North Side.

Xaranjo: Stela 14, South Sn:)E.

Hosted by

Google

HELIOTYPE CO., BOSTON.

Hosted by

Google

Memoirs Peabody Museum. Vol. IV.

Plate 34.

I, Naranjo: Stela 19, North Side.

2, Naranjo: Stela 19, South Side.

Hosted by

Google

HEUOTYPE CO., BOSTON.

Hosted by

Google

Memoirs 1*k.\iu)I)y Mi skim. Vol. l\',

Platk v^

I, Nakanjo: Stkla 20, South Sidk.

2, Xaranjo : Stela 21, South Side.

-iELiOTYPE CO., BOSTON.

Hosted by

Google

Hosted by

Google

Memoirs Pkaijody Mtseim. \'ol. 1\'

Plate 36.

V -12

'A

51

¥)

m

m

{ t'i ■'"' V.) V tv.

i&sKv:

I. Stela 22, West Side.

mn

)

XX. 0>

Stela 22, Solth Side

3, Stela 22. F^ast Side.

NARANJO.

HELIOTYPE CO., BOSTON.

Hosted by

Google

Hosted by

Google

Memoirs Pf.ahodv Ml'skim. Vol.. l\'.

Pkatk 37-

I, Xaranjo: Stkla 23, West Side, Upper Haij

2, Naranjo : Stkla 23, South Side.

Hosted by

Google

HELIOTYPE CO., BOSTON.

Hosted by

Google

Memoirs Pkabody Miseim. Vol. I\'

Plate 38.

%wlf M

V ■■TffMB

m

' ' ' ■> i *-> * y ''ttH

.'fe3Jijm*lfe.I

^* f.'4!^^./' ill

■ -■ "U,:' A/ I'd -■".ll

•■■-■? /^i a >|

m.:^^':^^^f^'iF^-m. 1^

■'^'*'^^l'..M

I, Stela 23, West Side.
Lower Half.

Stela 23, East Side,
Upper Half.

3, Stela 2t^, East Side,
Lower Half.

NARANJO.

HELIOTYPE CO., BOSTON.

Hosted by

Google

Hosted by

Google

Memoirs Peabody Museim. Vol. I\'.

Plate 39.

m

K%

f^^.^T\--vJ

W^

rCk^.

J'--M.-:

'4:^'^,%^¥-

wms

P*p.ir-ffx-j

W'

W:

i

1 f 4* -"I '

%^. 0^. .

I, Stela 24, East Side.

Stela 24, North Side.

Stela 24, West Side.

NARANJO.

HELIOTYPE CO., BOSTON.

Hosted by

Google

Hosted by

Google

KMOIRS PkAHODV MlSEI'M. \\)L. IN'

Plate

I, Naranjo: Stki.a 2^, West Side.

2, Naranjo: Stela 28, West Side.

HE^-IOTYPF CO., BOSTON

Hosted by

Google

Hosted by

Google

Memoirs Pkabody MiTSErM. Vol. I\'.

Plate 41.

I, Nakanjo: Stkla 29, West Side

2, Naranjo : Stela 29, East Side.

Hosted by

Google

HELIOTYPE CO., BOSTON

Hosted by

Google

MkMOIRS l*KAIU)I)Y MrSEUM. \'OL. 1 \' .

\

mJ^v>

?'^ ■'■lilv %'i,'lin>l:*

r ,

111

|\i^

2£i4#.^4LUhfe:'-%

iii^ i

km

M

jmSi

1 <-

m

Q^o.

ifil^

KKua^

U^^f§

pi,

i

^

^1 ,^^V<

^^m@l1^tir!^ti/<?-^^\- Ai^%

^\'e^. i^

/ J

lil,'k';&», ^iW«sOk *tiSF^^Sl VA-'^-^: {''^^J-il

it.- \

- i. .

fcfjfiam ti.VW' »;,i

1 #^p^ i^lMf 1

IL-s>,'^l^^'

A. .

\

J

^^H s^/

^^^^P

fc..

■ lF^ifi\i\- h'lv

tm,

It

'Cc ,

i^I^.. .- .^■'^■^'-^*^/%.-^- LV%^. 1

M^

.'

Lrv i

1

i

Naranjo : Stela 30, West Side.

2, Naranjo: Stela 30, I^ast Side.

HFLIOTYPF CO., BOSTON.

Hosted by

Google

Hosted by

Google

Memoirs Fkahody Miskim. Vol. 1\ .

Platf. 4.V

Xaranjo : Stela 31, West Side

Hosted by

Google

HELIOTYPE CO,, BOSTON

Hosted by

Google

Hosted by

Google